Introduction To Sights and Optics For AR-15 Rifles:
The subject of sights and optics for AR-15 style rifles is vast. So that there is not any confusion, and so that you are not overwhelmed by all of the following information, the easiest way to help you make decisions on the best way to equip and employ your rifle is to look at how your rifle is configured from the manufacturer (older style with fixed carry handle rear sight with fixed triangle front sight, flat-top rear with fixed triangle front sight, or flat-top rear and flat-top front). Then you can decide how to configure it, such as simply using traditional style front and rear sights, a red-dot or holographic sight, or a magnified optic.
Click on the following option that best your rifle and your desired configuration:
- Traditional Style Fixed Carry Handle Rear Sight and Fixed Triangle Front Sight Base
- Flat-Top Rear with Fixed Triangle Front Sight Base
- Flat-Top Rear and Flat-Top Front (no sights installed)
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Options For AR-15 Rifles With Fixed Carry Handles:
Early AR15 style rifles had a fixed carry handle with an integral rear sight. If your carry handle is removable, then skip down to Options For Flat-Top AR-15 Rifles.
Using The Fixed Carry Handle Sights:
If you are going to use a rifle with a fixed carry handle with integral rear sight then you have two choices of how to employ the sights. The first setting discussed below will zero the rifle at a specific distance that provides the flattest trajectory for the 5.56mm cartridge when fired from an AR-15 style rifle. The second technique is a little more technical, but it allows you to establish the same specific “set-it-and-forget-it” trajectory and lets you establish a specific setting for 100 yard shooting, while maintaining the effectiveness of the 300 meter through 800 meter settings.
50 Yard “Set-It-And-Forget-It” Zero:
You may choose to leave your rifle stock, not add any optics, and simply use the sights that came on the rifle. If that is the case, it is recommended that you simply adjust your sights so that your point-of-aim (POA) and the rifle’s point-of-impact (POI) are the same at 50 yards (meaning that the rifle hits where you are aiming at 50 yards). This will give you a very flat trajectory out past 225 yards. The benefits of a 50 yard zero are discussed farther down this page with What Distance to Zero Your Red Dot Sights and Backup Iron Sights. Should you wish to adjust your sights so that you can have a specific setting for 50 yards and 100 yards, and still use the 300 – 800 meter settings, read about the Improved Battle Sight Zero next.
Santose Improved Battle Sight Zero For Carry Handles With Adjustable Sights:
This applies to those with rifles equipped with fixed carry handle rear sights, or removable carry handle rear sights that adjust for both windage and elevation.
The standard A2 rear sights on an AR15 / M16A2 were designed with elevation settings for 300 to 800 meters. The Santose Improved Battle Sight Zero allows for an elevation setting of 50 yards / 200 meters for one of the most all-around useful trajectories obtainable with the 5.56mm/223 Remington cartridge when fired from an AR-15. Early Battle Sight Zero techniques don’t allow for an elevation setting giving you point of aim equals point of impact at 100 yards. Since 100 yard shooting ranges are some of the most commonly found ranges in the United States, it would be useful to have such a setting on our AR-15s. This can be achieved quite easily with nothing more than a 1/16” allen wrench. It’s really just a matter of taking the Improved Battle Sight Zero one step further. See this link to learn how to do this: AR15.com’s Revised Improved Battle Sight Zero.
Mounting Optics To The Fixed Carry Handle:
You may wish to add some type of optic, but with fixed carry handles there aren’t many useful options.
There are several options for mounting optics on top of the carry handle, but this method set the optic so high that the shooter can’t get a good cheek weld on the stock. With the optic mounted excessively high (as seen in the photo to the right) there isn’t any way to zero the rifle that won’t destroy the fantastic flat trajectory of the .223 Remington / 5.56mm NATO cartridge that you normally enjoy when optics are properly mounted with the dot, reticle, or crosshairs 2.5″ above the center of the rifle’s bore as the fixed sights are.
Another option is to add a mount to the carry handle that carries holographic or red dot optic forward of the carry handle over the forend. It can hold an Eotech or Aimpoint optic so that the reticle is co-witnessed with the iron sights of the rifle. Note that you can’t mount a magnified scope forward of the charging handle as you would never be able to get proper eye relief on the optic.
Some models of Trijicon’s ACOG magnified optics are designed to mount in the channel of the carry handle. There is a small hole through the mount so that you can still use the iron sights on the rifle should the ACOG be put out of commission. This may be your best way to mount a magnified optic to the top of the carry handle as low as possible. You still won’t have the optimum cheek weld or ballistics, but you can make it work. Check out the cheek riser option next.
If you mount an optic to the top of the carry handle then you might want to think about adding a cheek riser to your stock (as seen in the photo to the right). This will allow you to properly position your head behind the optic. There are cheek rests for both fixed and telescoping stocks. Research carefully before purchasing your cheek riser as some may block the operation of the charging handle unless the stock is fully extended. If you mount a holographic or red dot optic forward of the carry handle then you won’t need a cheek riser.
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Options For Flat-Top AR-15 Rifles:
Rear Flat-Top And Fixed Factory Front Sight Base (FSB) Configuration:
Most AR15 style rifles built in the past ten to fifteen years do not have a built in carry handle / rear sight assembly, but rather a “Picatinny rail” that allows the user to have a choice as to mount holographic sights, red-dot sights, magnified optics, simple rear sights, or even a removable carry handle / rear sight assembly. These are referred to as “flat top” rifles (pictured right). In the past, anyone wanting to mount optics on top of their AR-15 style rifles were forced to use some type of adaptor to mount their optics on top of the fixed carry handle. This set the optics too high to take advantage of the 5.56x45mm NATO rounds fairly flat trajectory, and it set the optic too high for the shooter to get a good cheek weld on the stock. The flat-top design allows you to mount your optics so that the aiming reticle is the same height above bore as the tradition fixed “iron sights”.
Potential Problems Zeroing Rear Backup Sight and Optic:
The vast majority of BUIS are manufactured to match the height of a Mil-Spec front sight base (FSB). If you want to add a Mil-Spec carry handle or a BUIS to a rifle with a shorter “commercial” grade (non-Mil-Spec) front sight base (FSB), then you will have to replace the stock front sight post with a slightly taller part. If you don’t, then you will not be able to raise your front sight post enough to zero the rifle. Details and solutions to the problem are discussed further down with Potential Problems Mounting and Zeroing Backup Sights. None of this is an issue if your rifle has a “F” marked (Mil-Spec height) front sight base (as seen right), or is completely flat-top and requires both a front and rear backup sight, as discussed next.
Front and Rear Flat-Top Configuration:
While some flat-top rifles will be manufactured with the traditional triangle FSB, others may be manufactured a rail on top of the gas block so that you can add a backup sight of your choice. Most front backup sights will fold down out of the way until you need them. This rifle configuration is sometimes referred to as an Optic Ready Carbine (ORC).
Some AR-15 rifles are manufactured or modified to have a railed forened that extends and covers where the triangle front sight would normally sit.
You can mount backup a backup rear sight where it should go, and then mount a front sight all of the way forward on the rail (as seen in the photo to the right). You can simply use the backup sights exclusively, or if you mount an optic, the front and rear backup sights can be folded down out of the way until they are needed (primary optic becomes inoperative).
If you use the front and rear backup sights exclusively, or use a non-magnified red-dot or holographic optic then you will want to zero your rifle so that the bullet impacts where you aim at 50 yards. This will give you the flattest trajectory possible with 5.56mm (.223 Remington) ammunition fired from a rifle with sights that sit 2.4″ to 2.5″ above the center of the bore. For further explanation, skip down to What Distance to Zero Non-Magnified Optics & Sights.
Considerations for Sights and Optics Options On Flat-Top Rifles:
If your rifle is flat-top then you have several option. This will include using a removable carry handle / sight combination that looks and operates just like a fixed carry handle AR-15 as discussed earlier, using a simple rear backup sight in conjunction with the factory installed triangle front sight or a backup front sight on rifles with extended forends with no triangle front sight installed, or adding non-magnified red-dot or holographic sights, or magnified optics.
Flat-Top Ar-15 Rifles Using Removable Carry Handle:
Some flat top rifles are sold with a removable carry handle that looks exactly like the older fixed carry handles, except that they can be easily removed with two knobs. Some rifles are sold without the carry handle as manufactures realize that most end users will want to remove them to customize their rifles with optics and accessories.
If you choose to use the carry handle then don’t mount any optics to the top of it. This defeats the purpose of the removable carry handle. Remove it and mount the optics to the rifle’s rail.
If you buy a flat-top with a fixed triangle front sight tower and you decide that you want to purchase a removable carry handle to use as the rear sight then there are some factors to consider. There is a specific sight tower height that is considered “Mil-Spec”. Not all rifles are “Mil-Spec” and you will find rifle manufactures that use sight towers that are slightly shorter (sometimes referred to a “commercial height”, the distance almost imperceivable to the untrained eye). If you try to use a detachable carry handle with a Mil-Spec height rear sight on a rifle with a front sight that is “commercial height” then you find it impossible to zero your rifle. For further discussion of this issue, skip down to Potential Problems Mounting and Zeroing Backup Sights
Improved Battle Sight Zero For Carry Handles With Adjustable Sights:
This applies to those with rifles equipped with fixed carry handle rear sights, or removable carry handle rear sights that adjust for both windage and elevation.
The standard A2 rear sights on an AR15 / M16A2 were designed with elevation settings for 300 to 800 meters. The Santose Improved Battle Sight Zero allows for an elevation setting of 50 yards / 200 meters for one of the most all-around useful trajectories obtainable with the 5.56mm/223 Remington cartridge when fired from an AR-15. Early Battle Sight Zero techniques don’t allow for an elevation setting giving you point of aim equals point of impact at 100 yards. Since 100 yard shooting ranges are some of the most commonly found ranges in the United States, it would be useful to have such a setting on our AR-15s. This can be achieved quite easily with nothing more than a 1/16” allen wrench. It’s really just a matter of taking the Improved Battle Sight Zero one step further. See this link to learn how to do this: AR15.com’s Revised Improved Battle Sight Zero.
Flat-Top Rifles With Backup Iron Sights (BUIS):
If you use the front and rear backup sights exclusively, or use a non-magnified red-dot or holographic optic then you will want to zero your rifle so that the bullet impacts where you aim at 50 yards. This will give you the flattest trajectory possible with 5.56mm (.223 Remington) ammunition fired from a rifle with sights that sit 2.4″ to 2.5″ above the center of the bore. For further explanation, skip down to What Distance to Zero Non-Magnified Optics & Sights.
If you are going to use a non-magnified red-dot or holographic optic, first zero your optic and then zero your BUIS. Your optic has much finer adjustments than the BUIS. As stated above, zero your optic so that the bullet impacts where you aim at 50 yards. Zeroing your BUIS is as simple as looking through your deployed sights with your correctly zeroed optic turned on. Adjust the backup sights so that the optic’s reticle dot is bisected by the tip of the front sight post. You don’t have to fire a shot to zero the backup sights, although prudence would suggest that you verify your zero on the range with your optic turned off. Keep in mind that since the backup sights do not have as fine of adjustments as the optic that you might not be able to get the sights perfectly aligned with the optic. This is okay. Just get it close enough. They are backup sights. They won’t be perfect, but they will be close enough that you can continue the fight if your optic fails.
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Backup Iron Sight (BUIS) Fundamentals:
BUIS is an acronym for “backup iron sights”. This is nothing more than a catchy label for backup sights that you can use when and if your primary electronic or magnified optic is damaged or fails. “Iron” simply refers to their metal parts to differentiate them from electronic optics, although none of them are made from iron, but rather aluminum, steel, and plastic. Backup sights can simply be a rear sight that sits on a flat-top receiver behind the optic, or it may be a set of both front and rear sights for an ORC (Optic Ready Carbine: a carbine with only rails on top and no front sight base that is ready for customization by the end user).
Most rear backup sights are only capable of windage adjustments. Elevation must be established with adjustments to the front sight. Most backup sights do not have the fine adjustments like those on a carry handle. Zero them as close as possible, but don’t expect perfection. Zero your backup sights for point-of-aim / point-of-impact at 50 yards. Be sure to use Loctite thread locker when mounting your backup sights. I promise that the screws will eventually loosen during shooting and the sights will loose their zero.
If you run some type of aiming device (holographic sight, red-dot sight, or magnified optic) on your rifle then you need to have a backup sight(s) on your rifle. Murphy’s Law dictates that your electronic optics will break or be damage, your scopes will break or fog up, and your batteries will go dead at the worst time. If this happens and you don’t have a backup system for aiming, then that weapon is out of the fight. You soon will be too.
One day, after making a long drive to the range to shoot my M4, I discovered that my Eotech’s batteries were dead. Although I was ashamed for not having an extra set of batteries with my rifle or in my range bag, I was still able to utilize the rifle’s backup sights and enjoy a long morning of shooting. Besides installing backup sights on all of my rifles, I store an extra set of batteries in each rifle’s Magpul MOE aftermarket pistol grip (pictured right), and keep extra batteries in my range bag.
Stay away from cheap Chinese made “Airsoft” quality parts and gear, such as Aim Sports, Promag, Leepers, UTG or NcStar. Save your money and buy quality gear. Your life may depend on it. As always, when you install any parts, be sure to use Loctite thread locker on the threads of the screws to keep your parts from loosening up when you shoot.
Manufactures of Quality Backup Sights include:
Potential Problems Mounting and Zeroing Backup Sights And Optics:
99.9% of backup sights are considered to be mil-spec height above the bore because they are intended to be mounted on mil-spec rifles. You will run into problems if you try to use Mil-Spec height rear backup sight with a non Mil-Spec height FSB.
Mil-Spec Front Sight Base = Non Issue:
Mil-Spec front sight bases for A-3 (removable carry handle / flat-top) AR-15 rifles are taller than older A-1 and A-2 (fixed carry handle) rifles.The way to tell whether or not you have a mil-spec FSB is that it is marked with an engraved or raised “F” on the left side of the front sight base’s forging (as seen in the photo to the right). There may be other markings to differentiate the company of origin, but a “F” on the left side of the front sight post is the only way to be sure. If you have an “F” then you can simply add your rear backup sight and/or optic and you will be ready to sight-in the rifle. You can skip this section.
Front and Rear Backup Sights = Non Issue:
If you have a rifle that has neither a front or rear sight, but does have a rail to mount both front and rear (as seen in the photo to the right), then you simply purchase a pair of quality front and rear backup sights and mount them on the rifle, making sure to use Loctite thread locker (If you don’t use Loctite then I promise that your sights will eventually work themselves loose.). The following potential issue does not pertain to you. You can skip this section.
Issues With Rear Backup Sight On Rifles With Non Mil-Spec FSB:
There are a few manufacturers whose “commercial grade” rifles are equipped with FSBs that are not quite exactly Mil-Spec height. Bushmaster still uses the older, traditional shorter A-2 front sight base on their A-3 (removable carry handle) rifles, as do DPMS and several other manufacturers.
Technically the all front sight bases are the same height, but the top part of the FSB where the post extends from sits higher than a standard “commercial” FSB, as seen in the photo to the right.
To make up for shorter FSB, Bushmaster, DPMS, and some other manufacturers use shorter removable carry handles. The difference between a Mil-Spec and commercial removable carry handle is very difficult to tell apart unless you have one of each to compare, or have a dial or digital caliper to measure. Remember, a non Mil-Spec carry handle will not work with a “F” marked Mil-Spec height FSB, and as stated earlier, a Mil-Spec carry handle will not work with a non “F” marked “commercial height” FSB.
You will not be able to co-witness your backup sights with a red-dot or holographic sight if you so choose. Remember that with the vast majority of backup sights that all elevation changes will be made with the front sight. You will not be able to zero the rifle because you won’t be able to raise the front sight post enough without the front sight post backing out of the FSB (as seen in the photo to the right). Completely unacceptable.
Pictured right is a comparison of the Mil-Spec front sight post (left) that sits on a taller front sight base compared to the .040″ taller post (right) that is required on the shorter “commercial height” sight base to make it work with backup sights. If you are going to mount a backup rear sight on a rifle with a fixed, “commercial height” FSB, then you will need to replace the original front sight post (pictured left in the photo to the right) with a slightly taller (.04″) front sight post (pictured on the right in the photo to the right) that can be ordered from Windham Weaponry and shipped for around $10.
Replacing the original front sight post will require a front sight tool AR-15 front sight tool that can be ordered from the same company. Simply use the tool to simultaneously hold in the front post retaining pin while unscrewing the sight post out of the sight base. It’s very easy with the tool, and frustrating and time-consuming without it.
It is interesting to note that replacing the front sight post is more critical on Bushmaster carbines, but may not be necessary on full-length rifles with 20″ barrels.
Before you start ordering parts for replacing your removable carry handle or front sight post for your “commercial grade” rifle, verify that it is not marked with the raised “F”. Older Bushmasters were not. There is a chance that since Bushmaster is under new ownership that newer rifles may have the correct height Mil-Spec front sight tower and sight post that will work with Mil-Spec backup iron sights.
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What Distance to Zero Non-Magnified Optics & Backup Sights:
Battle Sight Zero = Set It And Forget It:
Simply defined, “Battle Sight Zero” (sometimes referred to as “Battle Zero”, “BSZ”, or “BZ”) is a theoretical “set it and forget it” setting for your backup sights or non-magnified optics that will allow your to make combat effective hits out to a certain distance without applying any hold-over or hold-under from your point-of-aim. With your sights set to a “Battle Sight Zero” you will know that your rounds will hit no more than “X” inches above or below your point-of-aim from CQB distances out to “Y” yards or meters distance. You will want your sights set at a distance that will provide the flattest trajectory, and thus the least deviation in point-of-aim and point-of-impact at varying distances. Fortunately for those using .223 Remington / 5.56mm NATO rifles, there is a distance that you can zero your rifle and enjoy a very flat trajectory out past 200 yards away.
What Zero Distance Provides The Flattest Trajectory?:
It is important to zero the elevation of the sights with a single setting that will take the most advantage of the flat shooting trajectory of the 5.56mm/.223 caliber rifle round. The following diagram compares the trajectories of bullets when zeroed at 25, 50, and 100 yards. While you can expect minor variations in trajectory depending on if you are using a carbine with a 16″ barrel or a full-size battle rifle with a 20″ barrel, as we as with different brands, loads, and weights of ammunition, the data supplied is accurate enough to compare trajectories for use with backup sights and non-magnified optics.
100 Yard Trajectory:
The first chart shows the trajectory of a 5.56mm NATO round when fired from an AR15 style rifle. The dash line represents the shooters point of aim. The bullet departs the barrel approximately 2.5″ below the point of aim. It’s flight path reaches the shooters aiming point at 100 yards (point-of-aim (POA) = point-of-impact (POI). The bullet then drops back down to 2.5″ below POA at 200 yards, and plummets drastically after that. This isn’t a terrible zero if you never plan on shooting past 200 yards as the bullet will impact somewhere within the distance of the barrel to the top of the rifle’s sight base. Not terrible, but you can do better.
25 / 300 Meter Trajectory:
The next graph represents the traditional military method of zeroing the rifle at 25 / 300 meters (meaning that you zero the rifle at 25 meters and can expect a second POA = POI at 300 meters). This was traditionally done with adjustable rear sights, such as those found on rifle’s equipped with carry handles, set on the 300 meter setting, but the target set 25 meters away. This is a TERRIBLE zero setting. At 100 meters (109 yards) the your rounds will impact over 4″ above your POA. At 175 meters the bullet impact will reach its peak apogy at roughly 6″ above your POA. The USMC has finally accepted that this isn’t the most efficient way to zero an AR15 / M16 style rifle. Do not use a 25 meter “set it and forget it” zero.
50 Yard Zero:
The next graph illustrates the ballistic trajectory of a 5.56mm NATO round with a 50 yard zero (not meters). This zero is commonly referred to as “Improved Battle Sight Zero”. As with the graphs above, you can see that the bullet leaves the rifle 2.5″ below the point-of-aim (POA). The bullets trajectory will pass through the shooters point-of-aim at 50 yards. At 100 yards it impact approximately 1.5″ high. It will reach its peak apogy of 1.8″ at approximately 140 yards. Around 220 yards the round will again pass through the shooters (POA). At 250 yards the round will impact approximately 2.5″ below POA. This data shows that on its flight from the rifle’s muzzle out to 250 yards, the bullet will hit somewhere within plus or minus the height of the rifles front sight base (+/- 2.5″). That’s pretty darn flat.
50 Yard, 25 / 300 Meters / 100 Yards Trajectory Comparison:
The final graph compares all three trajectories. The 100 yard zero isn’t terrible, but you can do better. The 25 / 300 meter zero is terrible. The 50 yard zero will provide the combat shooter with the flattest trajectory out to approximately 250 yards, and is the recommended distance to zero your backup sights and non-magnified optics as a “set it and forget it” Battle Sight Zero setting.
Conclusion:
The 50 yard zero provides the flattest trajectory for the AR-15 style rifle. It is easy to see why the 50 yard zero is the best choice, and how your point-of-impact will never be more than +/- 2.5 inches from your point-of-aim, from close up and personal “bad breath” distance, all the way out to a distance of approximately 250 yards. Competitive shooters and the USMC now realize this and employ the 50 yard zero technique with backup sights and non-magnified red-dot and holographic optics.
Important: This Battle Sight Zero is for AR-15 style rifles firing 5.56mm NATO ammunition. It is not necessarily an appropriate Battle Sight Zero for other 5.56mm rifles (because they may have sights of different height over bore than the AR-15), or rifles in other calibers. This is not the correct zero for Tavor, Steyr AUG, or AK rifles chambered in 5.56mm.
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Co-Witness Iron Sights and Optics:
As discussed earlier, if you are going to install any type of electronic aiming device, it would be prudent to install some type of backup sights. You will also want the backup sights to be zeroed at 50 yards. With the optic and the backup sights properly installed and zeroed, it will look like the aiming dot of the optic is bisected by the top of the front sight post. The sights and optic will then be considered “co-witnessed”.
The easiest way to co-witness your optic and backup sights will be to carefully zero your optic first on the range so that your bullets are hitting exactly where you aim at 50 yards. You want to zero your optic first because it can be more finely adjusted than most backup sights. Next you will zero your backup sights. If your optic is correctly zeroed then you won’t have to fire a single shot to zero your backup sights. With the majority of backup sight you can not adjust the elevation of the rear sight. You must use a front sight post adjustment tool to raise or lower the front sight until it appears, when you are looking through the front and rear backup sight, that the optic’s reticle is horizontally bisected by the tip of the front sight post.
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Red-Dot Sights & Holographic Sights On The AR-15:
Red-dot and holographic sights make it much easier to quickly acquire and hit targets than “iron sights”. Shooting from CQB distances out to 300 meters can greatly be aided with the use of red-dot or holographic optics. They are much easier to shoot with than traditional iron sights. Examples are discussed on that page.
Unless the optic is equipped with some type of bullet drop compensation (BDC) then you will want to zero the optic for point-of-aim / point-of-impact at 50 yards. Be sure to use Loctite thread locker when mounting your optic. I promise that the screws will eventually loosen during shooting and will loose their zero.
Always keep spare batteries for the optic with the rifle. I really like Magpul’s MOE grips (pictured right) as they have a compartment where you can store spare batteries for your optic or weapons light. I place the battery in a small plastic arts & crafts “crack bag” before storing it in the grip. (If you replace your grips, be very careful as there is a very small spring and pin that may fall out when you remove the original grip. Be careful not to damage the spring when installing the new grip. Be sure to add a dot of Loctite to the screw that holds the grip to the rifle’s receiver.)
Be sure to add a set of backup sights (discussed above) as batteries can go dead and electronics can fail or be destroyed. With backup sights you will be able to stay in the fight.
Magnified Optics On The AR-15:
Non-magnified red-dot and holographic optics are perfect for shooting at targets less than 250 – 300 yards, but at greater distances you will be greatly aided with a magnified optic. 1-4x variable magnification optics are great for targets out to 300 to 500 yards, although man-size targets at 500 yards are pretty small with only 4x magnification. If you plan on routinely shooting at targets 500 yards and beyond then you might benefit from a 1-6x variable magnification optic. Keep in mind that while some magnification can help you identify and prosecute threats at intermediate distances, too much magnification can limit your peripheral vision and affect your ability to detect threats. It is recommended to limit the magnification power of optics intended for tactical/fighting rifles to 4x magnification. Examples of magnified optics are also discussed on the page linked above.
Magnified Optics with Bullet Drop Compensation (BDC):
If you are using a magnified optic that has bullet drop compensation (BDC) stadia markings for .223 Remington / 5.56mm NATO ammunition then you should zero the rifle so that bullet impact is appropriate for corresponding distance’s marking in the optic (at 100 meters the bullet’s point-of-impact hit where you aim with the 100 meter stadia marking). The rifle should then hit point-of-aim at 200 meters when aiming with the 200 meter stadia marking, 300 meters with the 300 marking, etc.
Magnified Optics with Non-Specific Stadia Markings:
If you have a magnified optic with non-specific markings, such as mil-dot, you may choose to zero the rifle at 50 yards. With a 50 yard zero you know that your rounds will hit within a 2.5″ circle from 10 yards out to approximately 250 yards (discussed further down). For shooting greater than that distance you will have to shoot at known distances and and experiment to figure out how much hold-over you need for a given distance (shoot, observe where the round hit, and keep adjusting until you know how many dots to hold-over for that particular distance. Record the rifle’s “dope” on a card or piece of paper that will stay with the rifle. You will forget the information and will be glad that you kept the information.
Magnified Optics with Simple Crosshairs or Reticle:
Simply zero the rifle at 50 yards. You will hit withing a 2″ circle from 10 yards out past 225 yards without any holdover. (Explanation below)
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Proper Cheek Weld and Eye Relief:
When shooting with magnified optics, red-dot or holographic optics, or iron sights, for proper eye relief you should have your face far enough forward on the fixed stock or retractable stock tube so that your nose is almost touching the charging handle.
In the photo to the right the shooter has their eye excessively far back from the rear sight. This is a telltale of an inexperienced shooter.
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