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Order of Preparation

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Preppers



Order of Preparation: Mindset — Skillsets — Assets

You can only prepare in this order:

  1. Mindset
  2. Skillsets
  3. Assets

It would be a mistake to go out and start buying food, water, and gear (assets) if you haven’t first developed a survival mindset, and developed the skillsets to employ the assets. “Stuff” is important, but with the right mindset and skill sets you will be able to survive with less, and be able to adapt with what little you may have to survive.

 

Commentary, submitted by “Mike”:

January 15, 2015

Order of prep: The philosophy of spread thin before stacking tall comes to mind.

Ask yourself…what will kill you first? thirst, hunger, or lack of ‘blank’? I know a lot of people with dozens of guns and 1,000’s of rounds of ammunition, that will die from lack of water. This is what we call “skip ahead”.

“The Skip Ahead”: The act of putting off buying a high priority item, to buy a more wanted, but less needed, item and delaying the high priority item. A good example would be buying a 2nd AR-15, before you buy water and food.

“The Make Do”: The act of buying/making do with, a lesser quality item that is cheaper, to free up $ to buy other same priority items. The combination of purchases is typically better than a higher quality item by itself. Example: Buying a AR-15 for $1,000 and having no money left to buy bullets…or…buying an AK-47, 10 mags, 300 rounds of ammo, and 100 gallons of water. This is similar to the “spread wide before stacking tall philosophy”.

The “skip ahead” and “make do” phrases are what we use in Mississippi. When we see a guy with very little food and water, buy a $1,000 scope for his rifle…we call that a “skip ahead”. Buy all means, get the $1,000 scope…but only after you have the more important stuff.

When a guy shows up with some old, bull-crap, used body armor for $100…we call that a “make do”. Not the best armor…but appropriate for someone who has NONE. And, if ridiculed, all he usually has to say is…”ok, so show me your armor”, and that ends the conversation. If its doesn’t, and the guy says my $1,000 interceptor vest is in the trunk…then the reply is, “well, my trunk is filled with $900 in food!”

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Storacell Battery Management Systems

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Storacell’s “Battery Caddies” Battery Storage Devices:

Storacell.com

Battery CaddyI just purchased a bunch of Storacell’s “battery caddies” to store my vast supply of spare batteries.  They have models to hold C123, AAA, AA, C, D, and 9 volt batteries.  They are available in many colors, including military green, black, blaze orange, and glow-in-the-dark.  You can buy models that hold over a dozen batteries for bulk storage, or smaller, more portable models that only hold four to six batteries.  The smaller models are perfect for your bug-out bag, get home bag, vehicle glove box, boat box, purse, shooting bag, etc.

I bought military green ones (pictured right) for my “tactical uses”, and blaze orange for my boat’s emergency box.  I have filled mine with quality batteries, place them in small, plastic craft baggies (available at at arts & crafts stores, and in the crafts section of Walmart), and packed them away along side my flashlights in my emergency bags and in my vehicles.

Storacell on Amazon:

Storacell on Amazon.com

Amazon sell all of Storacell’s products.  Amazon’s prices are a little less expensive, and you may qualify for free shipping:

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June is “Water Month”

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hydration


June is going to be official “Water Month”.

Watch for posts regarding water procurement, purification, and storage.



Phases of Preparation

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The Five Phases of Preparedness:

Many beginning preppers make the mistake of initiating their preps with the intention of surviving the zombie apocalypse.  Your first step should be preparing for realistic, everyday personal and family emergencies.  The next step will be to prepare for 72 hours without any outside resources or utilities, or to execute a hasty mandatory evacuation.   Once you can survive for 72 hours without help, you should training and prepping for longer and more involved catastrophes.  Prepare to operate off-grid for a month. Once you feel that you are ready, simply continue to add resources to last as much as a year, or indefinitely.

The circles in the picture above illustrate each phase, level, or layer of preparation.  Each overlapping layer encompasses the mindset, skill sets, and assets of its subservient layer, and adds new MSAs required to survive the exponentiating complications of longer  and more severe survival scenarios.

The first level of preparedness, labeled “Personal” (as illustrated above as a yellow circle), applies to realistic, everyday types of emergencies and the mindset and preparedness to survive them.  These might include medical emergencies such as cardiac arrest, choking, bleeding, or a broken bone; loss of employment or income; home or vehicle fire; legal issues such as divorce or law suite, illness or death of a family member; personal assault, robbery, or home invasion.

The second level of preparedness, labeled “Immediate” (as illustrated above by the light orange circle), applies to emergencies that might only affect your and your community for a few days.  Examples might include blackouts, floods, blizzards, wildfire, etc.  These emergencies will require the mindset, skill sets, and assets of the personal level of preparedness, plus a few additional to successfully survive and prosper.  This level may require you to live for a few days without outside utilities and resources (electricity, running water, fire-rescue and law enforcement), or to quickly leave you home and live on the run for a few days.

The third level of preparedness, labeled “Intermediate” (as illustrated above with the dark orange circle), applies to regional type of emergencies that my require many months to recover from.  Examples might include post-hurricane or post-tornado rebuilding, however during that time you can expect financial help from your insurance carrier if you are properly covered.  You may not have a home, but there will be government assistance for rescue and cleanup, and insurance will put you in a motel until you can rebuild.  In many countries it may be quite a while before you receive any assistance, if any at all.

The fourth level of preparedness, labeled “Long Term” (as illustrated above with the red circle), applies to large-scale emergencies that might take as much as a year or more to recover from.  Examples might include global economic collapse, US economic collapse, EMP attack on the United States, regional war, regional pandemic, etc.  All resources will be precious, security will be a concern as people try to take what you have, and you will probably find it necessary to form some type of mutual aid and support group.

The fifth level of preparedness, labeled “Indefinite” (as illustrated above with the gray circle), applies to an EOTWAWKI type catastrophic event.  Major examples might include total economic collapse and collapse of the United States government, nuclear attack or terrorism that permanently disrupts our society, or solar activity or an electromagnetic pulse attack that destroys the nation’s or world’s electrical grid infrastructure.  You will be on your own, and no one is ever coming to help you.  It will require the mindset, skill sets, and assets (MSAs) of the first four level, plus the addition of many more complex and sophisticated MSAs in order to survive and prosper.  The fifth level will encompass everything that you can muster.  You will need it all.

The different levels represent the order and magnitude of emergencies and disasters that you should prepare for.  Completely prepare for the personal level before preparing for short-term emergencies, and prepare for short-term emergencies before preparing for long-term emergencies.  Each level encompasses the preceding levels within, so it is truly impossible to prepare for the end of society without first getting yourself into basic physical and financial shape and learning basic skills.  First learn to crawl, walk, and finally run.  You can’t run without learning the others first.

When attempting to master the next level of preparedness, concentrate first on mindset, then skill sets, and lastly, assets.

 


Phase One – Immediate – Personal:

EDC

While everyone loves planning for the zombie apocalypse and is looking forward to rappelling the roving bands of marauders intent on taking your buckets of beans, how many have actually prepped for some of the life’s more probable disasters?

unprecedented-shortages-of-ammo-physical-gold-and-physical-silverYou have a flat tire late at night in a rural area; your child is choking on a grape or hotdog; your smoke detector activates at 3:30 AM; someone is following you as you walk through the mall parking deck; your computer goes tango uniform; you lose your job; your house is robbed; you find a “lump”; your marital status changes by someone else’s choice; you become disabled and can not work; your spouse passes away; etc.

These scenarios aren’t as exciting as ISIS tanks rolling down Flatbush Ave, or Zombies climbing out of the ground, but I can bet that at least one of the aforementioned scenarios will happen to you. You’ve had your whole life to prepare. Why aren’t you ready?

Before you start preparing for the end of the world, start preparing for some of life’s more common emergencies.  You can apply the Order of Preparation theory (mindset, skill sets, assets) discussed earlier.  Develop a survivor mindset and condition your body so that you will be able to mentally and physically deal with the stress of an emergency or disaster.  Learn basic survival and emergency skills so that you will know what to do when something bad happens.  Position yourself legally and financially so that you can easily recover from a disaster.  Acquire the equipment and gear to deal with life’s realistic emergencies.

Personal Mindset Examples:

Personal Skill Set Examples:

Personal Asset Examples:

  • Save six months worth of living expenses.
  • Make sure that you insurance policies are up to date: health, life, supplemental, home owner’s, flood, etc.
  • Make sure that your will, health power-of-attorney, and other similar documents are up to date.
  • Secure important personal and financial documents into one binder. Store in a fire-proof safe or remote location .
  • Secure digital photos and other important computer files on external media that is stored in a fireproof safe or remote location.
  • Provide a safe home.  Conduct a home safety inspection.  Provide smoke/fire/CO2 detection equipment, fire suppression equipment, home security equipment, and first-aid kit(s) and supplies.
  • Provide safe and reliable transportation.  Properly maintain your vehicles.

 


Phase Two – Short Term – up to 72 hours:

doomsday_preppers_instore_ambient

Once you are prepared for life’s more routine emergencies, now you can start preparing for more dramatic catastrophes. You will need to seriously analyze your geographic area and decide what you should prepare for. The east coast has hurricanes, blackouts, and occasional civil unrest. The mid-west has droughts, blizzards, and tornadoes. The west coast has wildfires and earthquakes. There are nuclear power plants, petro-chemical plants, and other mega-industrial facilities scattered all across the United States. These have the potential for accident or are prime targets for terrorism.

In your analysis you will have to decide the best course of action for your anticipated disaster and then plan and prepare accordingly. Your plans for a wildfire or hurricane will be different from an earthquake or blackout. Regardless, after a major disaster you will need to be prepared to provide water, food, shelter, heating or air-conditioning, light, medical care, hygiene, transportation, security, and self recovery for yourself and your loved ones.  When you have established your list of perceived threats you can begin with preparing for those threats. The first and most important step in your preparation will be to develop a survivor mindset. Next you will need to develop survivor skillsets (knowledge to help your survive in adverse situations). The final step is to acquire assets (gear and equipment to help you survive).

On average it takes the federal government at least 72 hours to move resources and establish relief in a disaster area.  FEMA and the Red Cross recommend that every family have enough supplies to survive at least 72 hours without outside resources.  The first phase of your planning should be to cover a 72 hour in-home emergency such as a blackout, blizzard, or an evacuation from a wildfire, flood, or nuclear emergency.  Your preparations will include making a 72-Hour Kit for your home, a Bug-Out Bag for each member of your family in case you have to evacuate your home with little or no warning, and a Get Home Bag (GHB) for each vehicle to help get you home should you be caught away when the SHTF.  Bottled water, MRE or canned food, battery-powered lights and radio, and a few other convenience items should help get you through until order can be restored.  You will want to get prepped for an “immediate” and temporary type of emergency before you start planning for more long-term and elaborate disasters.

Short Term Mindset Examples:

  • I have analyzed the geographic area and know what disasters to prepare for.
  • I have a plan on how to quickly evacuate the area, and have a place to go.

Short Term Skill Set Examples:

  • Ability to defend yourself and your family.
  • Ability to survive in the wilderness.
  • Ability to make simple repairs of damaged buildings, vehicles, and gear.
  • Ability to perform CPR and simple first-aid.

Short Term Assets Examples:

 


Phase Three – Intermediate – up to three months:

sandy5n-5-copy

Disaster Examples: regional disasters such as hurricanes or cyclones, tsunamis, civil war, etc.  Although we in the United States are fortunate enough to be able to expect some type of rapid disaster recovery and relief from our government, you may live in a part of the world where civil recovery make take longer.

After you have enough supplies and training to stay in you home without outside resources and supplies for 72 hours, or to evacuate your home and live on the run for 72 hours, or to work you way back to your home should you be caught away when the SHTF, then it is time to start prepping for to survive a longer period of time without outside resources.  Three months is a good goal.

You will want to store potable water in bulk, and have a way collect and purify more water as your supply begins to dwindle.  You will want to have accumulated large amounts of canned and dried foods.  You will want to have a way to cook your food, such as a grill or camp stove, and enough fuel to run it for an extended time. You will want to have a way to recharge batteries, such as a solar panel(s).  You will want to have enough basic tools and supplies to make basic repairs to your damage home, such as a large tarp to go over a damaged room.  You may want to invest in a generator that can, at a minimum, power your refrigerator/freezer and a few appliances.  You will have to safely store enough fuel to run your generator.

Level Three Mindset:

  • I may have to barter my skills, services, and assets.
  • I know my local neighbors and friends and I am aware of their individual skill sets and assets.
  • I may have to physically protect myself and my family.
  • I may have to regenerate resources (water, food, etc.)
  • I need to maintain OPSEC with regards to our equipment, supplies, and capabilities.

Level Three Skill Sets:

Level Three Assets:

 


Phase Four – Long-Term – as much as a year or more:

food-storage-variety

Disaster examples: global economic collapse, US economic collapse, EMP attack on the United States, war, etc.

After you have prepped for a month of survival without outside resources, you can now start saving and prepping for “long-term” off-the-grid living for up to a year… or more.

The fourth level is where you settle in for the long haul.  You will have to produce your own food, water, and other resources, and create a group for mutual support and protection.  Everything that society has provided for you before the trigger event (safety and protection, utilities, food & water, transportation, communications, sanitation, etc.) will be gone and you will have to provide it yourself.  This level will be extreme.

Planning for “long-term” will involve storing canned and dried foods in much higher bulk levels, and creating a way to purify large volumes of drinking water, charging batteries with more elaborate solar or wind generators, and acquiring enough fuel (firewood) to cook and heat with.  You may want to stock up on seed and gardening supplies so that you can supplement your bulk supplies with fresh fruits and vegetables.  You will want to store hunting and fishing gear so that you can supplement your food stocks with fresh meat.  You will want to accumulate a year’s supply of all of the items that you use in your house each day.  You will need to accumulate all of the tools and spare parts that you might anticipate needing to make repairs to your home and vehicles for the next 12 months.  There isn’t any way that you can plan for every contingency, so you will most certainly find yourself trading and bartering for other goods and services.

Level Four Mindset Examples:

  • Everyone wants what I (we) have, and may do anything (including killing us) to take it.
  • Every resource is precious.

Level Four Skill Set Examples:

  • Group organizational experience and training.
  • Defensive Tactics.
  • Military training with combat MOS (weapons and tactics).
  • Military leadership experience and training.
  • Hunting: can kill and process game.
  • Gardening : can produce more food than they can eat.
  • Amateur radio operation: can talk to the world.
  • Food canning (long-term food storage).
  • Advanced medical training (doctor, nurse, dentist, paramedic, etc.).
  • Electrician.
  • Carpentry.
  • Plumber.
  • Automobile mechanic.
  • Seamstress.
  • Cook.

Level Four Asset Examples:

 


Phase Five – Indefinite – EOTWAWKI:

the_book_of_eli

Disaster examples: Electromagnetic pulse or solar activity that destroys all electronics on a global scale, nuclear holocaust, global pandemic, asteroid impact, etc.

Help is never coming.

First, and most importantly, you will absolutely have to have some type of survival group of people with various skill sets and expertise that you can trust with your life.  You won’t make it on your own.  You will need to have a way to purify water indefinitely without replacement filters.  You will need to know how to raise livestock, hunt, fish, butcher meat, and grow fruits and vegetables.  You will have to know how to protect yourself, your family, and your group.  You will need a way to generate electricity, such as solar and wind generators.  You need lots of hand tools to make repairs, and work the gardens.  You will absolutely have to become a master of bartering and scavenging food, fuel, batteries, etc.

EOTWAWKI is outside of the scope of Savannah Arsenal since it is all theoretical, but if you are preparing for that, then you will definitely be prepared for any lesser emergencies.

 

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AK47 Zeroing Fails

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00011f3d_medium


Just because it is on the internet doesn’t make it true.

On Savannah Arsenal’s AK-47 page, and on the How To Zero The AK-47 Rifle blog entry we discuss several ways to properly set up and zero the sights on an AK-47 rifle chambered in 7.62x39mm Soviet.  There are a number of videos on YouTube that erroneously explain how to zero the AK.  These are a couple of examples with explanations of how they are flawed.  The purpose of this blog entry isn’t to seek out fault with these video bloggers, but instead to help you better understand the ballistic trajectory and performance of the popular Soviet rifle round.

 


100 Meter Zero After Sighting In At 25 Yards: FAIL!

Spoiler: This method is flawed. With the rifle properly zeroed and the rear sight set on “1”, the bullet do not pass through the point-of-aim at 25 yards or 25 meters.

In this video the host zeroes the rifle at 25 yards (because most ranges in the United States are measured in yards, not meters) with the “1” setting on the rear sight (he originally states that you need to have the sight pulled all of the way back into the battle setting, but later corrects himself). He zeroes at 25 yards to initially center his group, both vertically and horizontally. Later in the video he states that you need to verify your zero at 100 meters.

AK-47 7.62x39mm 100 Meter Setting (2)The video and procedure above is flawed. According to the ballistics tables, if the rifle is properly zeroed, at 25 yards, the rounds will hit approximately 3.7 inches high at 100 meters. You would be able to set your windage, but at 100 meters you will still have to adjust the elevation of the point-of-impact.

The video’s host may have been confusing the use of the “1” setting at 25 yards vs. using the “2” setting. When properly zeroed and the rear sight set to “2” rather than “1”, according to 7.62x39mm ballistic charts, the rifle’s point-of-impact will be dead on at 25 yards (not meters). If you only have a 25 yard range to zero or practice with your rifle, set the rear sight to “2” and enjoy point-of-aim / point-of-impact shooting. If you later have the opportunity to shoot at 100 meters, simply set the rear sight to “1”.

 


The “25 Meter / 300” Meter Zero: FAIL!

Spoiler: There isn’t such a thing as a 25 meter / 300 meter trajectory.

This video is confusing and the procedure is flawed for several reasons.

25 meter zero at 300 metersThe video’s host initially states that you want to use a 25 / 300 meter zero. With 7.62x39mm Soviet ammunition and 2″ tall rifle sights, the ballistic tables show that there is no such thing as a trajectory that provides point-of-impact at both 25 meters and 300 meters. The table to the right shows that if you zero your rifle at 25 meters then the bullet will impact over 18″ low at 300 meters (328 yards).

Later the host admits that the name is misleading, and that with a 25 meter zero the bullet will again cross the point-of-aim at 220 meters (200 yards). The name of this setting should be called a “25 meter / 220 meter zero”. The video also neglects to suggest what setting that you should have your rear sight set to.

Forget this video’s procedure as it is flawed, confusing, and doesn’t provide a viable zeroing procedure. AK-47 7.62x39mm 200 Meter SettingAs you can see on the 200 meter ballistic chart to the right, the bullet will pass through the point-of-aim perfectly at 25 yards. Set you rear sight to “2” for 200 meters and zero your rifle at 25 yards (not meters). You can now move your sight back to the “1” setting and enjoy point-of-aim / point-of-impact at 100 meters (109 yards), you can leave the rifle at a 200 meter setting (as discussed later down the page), or pull adjust the rear sight back to the battle setting and enjoy torso size accuracy out to 400 meters.

No information in this video was provided for 5.45x39mm Soviet.

 

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Savannah Arsenal’s Revolver Page

Should You Carry With A Round In The Chamber?

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Why You Should Carry With A Round In The Chamber:

As long as I have carried a handgun I’ve run across people with different opinions regarding carrying their firearm with a round in the chamber.  Most want to carry with a round chamber in order to facilitate a quick draw and shoot, but some want to carry with the chamber empty to ensure against an accidental discharge.

In my humble opinion, planning to draw and chamber a round after the SHTF is like planning to fasten your seatbelt after you see the other guy run a stop sign.

Below are some blogs and videos that discuss whether or not you should carry your semi-automatic pistol with a round in the chamber. It is recommended that you carry your firearm chambered so that you can quickly engage a threat. You may find that you can’t draw and chamber a round with one hand if you are having to fight or hold back an attacker with the other. One arm may be injured making it more problematic to chamber a round.  Law enforcement always carries with a round in the chamber for this very reason, and you should too.

 

Won’t I Accidentally Shoot Myself?:

If you are carrying with a round in the chamber of a modern, well maintained, quality pistol in a rigid Kydex or quality leather holster that covers the trigger and trigger guard, then there isn’t a way for your pistol to accidentally discharge.  The linked blogs and attached videos will discuss safety issues and procedures related to carrying a chambered firearm, but some quick pointers include:

Follow the four golden rules of firearms safety:

  1. Treat all guns as though they are always loaded and always perform a clearance check every time you pick one up.
  2. Never point a gun at anything that you are not willing to destroy.
  3. Keep your finger off the trigger and out of the trigger guard until you are on target and have made the decision to shoot.
  4. Always be sure of your target and beyond.

Seek out professional training for concealed carry.

Practice. Practice. Practice:  After triple-checking that there is no live ammunition inside and in the vicinity of the firearm, load the magazines with dummy ammunition.  Practice drawing and presenting the pistol on target, being careful not to touch the trigger until on the sights are on target and you are ready to shoot.  Practice dry-firing at a spot on a far wall.  Be careful that the pistol does not move when the firing mechanism clicks.  When the gun clicks, practice clearing a malfunction, and then carefully holster.

Use extreme care when holstering your pistol.  Holstering may be the most dangerous part of carrying a round in the chamber.  This is a task that is not to be taken lightly.  Be very careful that your finger is not touching the trigger.  Be EXTREMELY careful that your jacket, shirt, gear, drawstring, etc. do not get into the trigger area as you insert the pistol into the holster.  People have accidentally been shot this way.  Don’t be fearful, but do be respectful, and this won’t happen to you.  As a practice, when first putting on your gun for the day, first insert the pistol into the holster, and then put on the holster with the gun already in it.

Dangerous Leather HolsterUse a modern, quality holster that completely covers the handgun’s trigger and trigger guard.  Kydex plastic is best material, especially with IWB holsters (inside the waistband), but if you choose real or synthetic leather, make sure that it has inserts to keep it from getting worn and droopy, especially around the trigger area (as seen in the photo to the right).  Throw away old and worn out holsters.  There isn’t any reason to keep them.

Don’t carry a chambered semi-automatic pistol in a soft pocket holster.  Most pocket-size semi-autos have long or stiff trigger pulls for added safety value when pocket carrying, however some don’t and require any more trigger effort to fire than their bigger brothers. Desantis NemesisRegardless of the make and model, I find it disconcerting to carry a chambered semi-auto that is pointing at my reproductive gear while in a soft pocket holster.  Ironically I have carried a S&W 642 hammerless revolver (stiff trigger) in a pocket holster for over 20 years without any fear or problems (as seen in the photo to the right), but when I carried a Glock 26 in a similar holster I chose not to carry with a round in the chamber as the Glock has a much lighter trigger pull than the revolver.   The choice is going to be a personal call for you.

Please feel free to comment at the bottom of the page with your questions, concerns, and experiences.

 

Must Read:

 

Must Watch:






 

Related Pages:

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Water Storage

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So you're telling me tht you have so much clean wate that youj shit in it?



“If you run out of water then nothing else in the website will matter.

In three days you will be dead.”

– Savannah Arsenal –



Water Storage Philosophies:

At a bare minimum you should plan on each person in your household consuming one gallon of water per day.  This is taking into account only water that is going to be ingested into the body through drinking or cooking.  It does not take into account all of the water that will be necessary for cleaning (dishes, clothes, etc.).  You will need clean, purified water for human consumption, but keep in mind that untreated rain water, swimming pool water, and water from clean, running streams and rivers can be used for non-consumption uses such as flushing toilets, washing clothing, and even bathing if it isn’t too dirty (and you are desperate enough).

All of your water storage must be able to keep your water clean and safe for consumption.

When deciding on what containers to use for portable water storage, remember that water weighs 8.3 pounds per gallon.

Immediate / Personal Water Storage:

Your immediate / personal water supply should be easily portable, both in size and weight, as well as method of carry.  Examples include Camelbak style bladder carriers, canteens, bottled water, etc.

Short Term Water Storage:

Intended to supply you and your family enough water for a 72 hour emergency.  Your short-term water storage containers should be small and light enough to be easily be moved around by one person and transported in vehicles should you need to bug-out.  Examples include cases of bottled water (easy to move, and easy to barter and trade), 5-gallon water cooler style water jugs, Water Bricks, etc.  When planning your short-term water supply keep in mind that five gallons of water weighs over 40 pounds.

Intermediate Term Water Storage:

Intended to supply you and your family enough clean, drinking water for up to three months.  Depending on your storage capacity, you will probably have to plan on ways to replenish and purify your stored water as it is depleted.  Examples include 55-gallon drum or similar bulk storage, bathtub bladders, water heater (provided that the incoming water wasn’t contaminated when it filled the water heater, and that you have the proper hoses and tools to drain it).

Indefinite Term Water Storage:

You can’t store an indefinite supply of clean, drinking water, but depending on your location you may have a large or infinite supply of water that can be made potable.  A “large” supply might be a swimming pool.  Examples of an indefinite supply include spring, well, stream, river, lake, rain collection, etc.   As with intermediate term water storage, you will have to have a way to collect and purify water to replenish your water storage.  Examples include large storage tanks and 55-gallon drums.  As the water is consumed during an extended catastrophe, it will be replenished and purified.  You will be limited by the rain producing weather, methods of storage, and methods and supplies to purify your collected water.

 



Bottled Water:

Some of the pros of bottled water are that it is easy to transport, it is easy to trade and barter, bottles are refillable.  This makes bottled water perfect for your 72 hour kit and bugout bag.

There are several cons to storing bottled water.  Bottled water is expensive, relative to price per gallon.  Also, because the bottles are clear and allow light in, they will eventually begin to grow bacteria.

When planning for your bottled water needs, keep in mind that 24 16-ounce bottles = 3 gallons.

 



Milk-Style Water Jugs (spoiler: don’t do it):

water-storage-02

Some of the pros of milk-style water jugs are that they are easy to transport in a vehicle, and their size makes them easy to trade and barter.  The jugs are refillable, although depending on the style of top, they may accidentally open too easy in certain circumstances.  They are perfect for your home’s 72 hour kit, but plan on replacing after six months of storage.

There are several cons to using milk-style water jugs for water storage.  They are not as easily carried as bottled water.  Over an extended period of time the jugs may develop leaks.  You will lose your water, and it may damage your shelving or storage area.  The jugs are not light-proof, so when small leaks form, bacteria may easily start to grow inside.  Jugs are not very sturdy and may easily rupture if dropped or mishandled.

Your best bet it to avoid using milk-style water jugs for long-term bulk water storage.  However, if you still insist, after six months of storage you will want to consume the water, recycle the plastic, and replace them with new and unopened water jugs.  Be sure not to store them on or above anything that you can’t risk getting wet or growing mold on.


 



55 Gallon Drums:

55 gallon water barrels55 gallon food grade drums are an awesome way to store large volumes of potable water for long periods of time.

While drums are a good way to store bulk water, there are still a few cons to using this storage method.  Unless someone has small bottles to transfer water into, you won’t be able to barter water.  You water won’t be portable at all as a full drum of water will weigh in excess of 400 pounds.  The drums will require a floor that can support the weight of the full barrel(s).

Drum and hand-pump sets can be ordered online from both Sam’s Club and Costco.

Recommendations:

  • Be sure to only use new, plastic, food grade drums.
  • Dark colored drums are better than opaque as they will block out light which may help bacteria to grow in the water.
  • Do not store on bare, concrete floors, such as in garages.  The chemical makeup of the concrete will degrade the plastic over time.  Place wood or some type of sturdy stand under the barrels.
  • ws_b705_image_2Purchase a new, food grade hand pump for your barrels.  Allow your pump to thoroughly dry before putting away so that it doesn’t grow mold and bacteria, and store it in a plastic bag to keep it clean.
  • When storing water (for less than 6 months), add eight drops of unscented chlorine bleach (5% solution) per gallon.
  • If you choose to store your barrels vertical, then you can move them around your storage area with ease using the Water Barrel Dolly, pictured right.


 



Water Bricks:

waterbrick Creative Storage Applications - Under Bed water bricks

Waterbricks are an incredible way to store water in tighter, confined spaces such as apartments, small houses, cabins, etc.

Costco sells 30-packs of 3.5 gallon bricks with two spigots for $469 (including shipping). This will allow you to store 105 gallons of water. The price of the Water Bricks is about twice what it costs for two new 55-gallon drums that will store practically the same amount of water, however you will benefit with the bricks because they are easy to store and carry, and unless you stack all of them in one area of your house, they shouldn’t create a weight issue.

The only downsides to the bricks is that may be more time consuming when you periodically drain and refill each individual brick during the good times, and more problematic to filter clean water back into during bad times.

 



Bulk Water Storage Tanks:

water-storage-tanks-550

There are a number of companies that make large, bulk water containers.  Basically these are giant versions of the 55-gallon water barrels discussed above.  With these systems you will be able to store a lot of water, however you will need a garage or basement these systems are extremely heavy.  These systems are easy to fill with a drinking-water safe garden hose.  They do, however suffer from the cost-per-gallon of storage price when compared to the Water Bricks.

Costco sell these type of systems online.

 



Bathtub:

emergency-drinking-water-bladder

Your bathtub can hold a lot of “utility water” that can be used for washing clothes, flushing toilets, etc.  You will have to know that a disaster is pending so that you can fill the bathtub in advance of loosing water pressure, or the incoming water getting contaminated.  Bathtub water is perfect for non-potable water uses such as flushing toilets, washing clothes, etc.  Remember that bathtub water isn’t going to be potable, at least not without serious purification efforts.

There are a couple of companies that make bladders that can placed in the tub and then filled via the tub’s faucet.  The bladders will give you an entire bathtub full of drinking water.  The major downside of these bladders is that you will have to know in advance that a disaster is going to happen, such as a hurricane, and fill it up before the incoming water is contaminated or the pressure is lost.  Also, the bladders are intended for single use and then thrown away.

 

Aquapod Bathtub Bladder:

 

WaterBOB Bathtub Bladder:

Recommendations:

If you are expecting a disaster, such as a hurricane, use a WaterBob to store up to 100 gallons of drinking water in your bathtub.

If you don’t have some type of bathtub bladder, you can still fill your bathtub(s) and use the water for washing clothes and, and flushing toilets.

 



Food Grade Hose:

drinking water garden hoseDon’t use garden hose for filling your storage barrels or draining a hot water heater.  Garden hoses a not food grade and are not safe for potable water.  They may contain lead, may leech harmful chemicals, and may harbor harmful bacteria inside.  Instead use a hose that is intended for potable water, such as those used to service boats and recreational vehicles.  They look similar, but are food grade.  You can purchase them at recreational vehicle dealerships, and in the garden section of WalMart.

 



Water Heater:

There is a very large, hidden source of clean water inside your home.  Depending on its size, your water heater can provide you with 30-50 gallons of clean drinking water (unless the incoming water supply has been contaminated).  You can shut off the water heater and drain it of its water for drinking and cooking.  Requires a few tool, food grade hose, and food grade storage containers to download the water into.

 How To Drain A Water Heater:

  1. Close the feed valve so that contaminated tap water won’t feed into the tank.
  2. Turn off heating element (electric heaters) or natural gas (gas heaters) to prevent overheating and pressure from building in tank. If you turn off your gas supply, you MUST have your gas company turn the gas back on. You can easily blow yourself up if you don’t know what you are doing.
  3. Connect drain hose to drain spigot at bottom of tank. In your disaster preparations you may want to build a hose system with a valve on the end so that you won’t have to continuously turn on and off the water at the water heater connection. If you have to you can use a garden hose with a nozzle on the end.
  4. You may have to open the overflow valve on the side of the tank to break the suction so the water flows freely.

 



Other Large Sources Of Water:

There are many sources of large volumes of water, but all but a few wells will require purification.  A spring or well may already be a source of water for your home.  If so, you will want to consider how to keep the water flowing even after the public power grid has gone down and your pump quits.

Any of the other sources are going to require considerable effort and resources to transport and purify should you choose to use them during a long-term or indefinite emergency.  Plan now and get the supplies, training, and practice that you need now before the SHTF.

Examples of large volume or renewable water sources include:

  • Swimming pool.
  • Spring.
  • Well.
  • Stream or River.
  • Pond or Lake

 



How To Treat Drinking Water For Long-Term Storage:

For treating water that has not been treated with either 5-6% or 8.25% (sodium hypochlorite) bleach:

  • 5 gallons water: 40 drops or ‘5’ one-eighth teaspoons of 5-6% bleach.
  • 5 gallons water: 27 drops or ‘3’ one-eighth teaspoons of 8.25% bleach.
  • 55 gallon water barrel: 7 teaspoons of 5-6% bleach.
  • 55 gallon water barrel: 4.5 teaspoons of 8.25% bleach.

Note that during storage household liquid bleach will break down into oxygen and table salt, losing potency over time, up to 50% in just 6 months to a year.

 



How To Store Water For Long Term Storage:

  • After treatment, be sure that your water barrel is sealed (lid on securely).
  • Label container as “drinking water” and include storage date.
  • Keep stored water in a place with a fairly constant cool temperature.
  • Do not store water containers in direct sunlight.
  • Do not store plastic water containers on concrete surfaces.
  • Do not store water containers in areas where toxic substances such as gasoline or pesticides are present.
  • Drain and refill (and re-treat) your water containers every 6 months if you can. It’s generally not necessary (if treated, sealed, and stored properly), however it is easy to do and will ensure quality water should you ever need it.

 



Recommendations:

  • Store enough bottled water to last each person in your household / group from three to seven days.
  • Use Water Bricks, barrels, or large storage tanks to store enough drinking water to last each person in your household / group for at least one month.
  • You may choose to increase you water storage capability over time to meet your perceived needs.
  • Purchase the necessary equipment and supplies to purify water from local bulk and renewable sources for an extended time period.

 

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Magpul SGA Stock For Mossberg 500/590 and Remington 870

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magpul shotgun stock remington 870 magpul rear stock remington 870 magpul furniture camoflage Remington 870 Magpul SGA Stock

Are Magpul’s new SGA shotgun stocks worth the price?

Spoiler Alert!  Yes.


Magpul SGA:

 

Background:

I have always run Mossberg 500s and 590s with either the original factory polymer stock, original factory wood stock, or ATI’s fixed pistol-grip stock.  All of them worked fine, but they never quite had the ergonomics or bad-ass look that I was looking for.  I recently bit the bullet and purchased one of Magpul’s SGA shotgun stocks.  I had heard great things about them and thought that I’d give one a try.  If it sucked, then I’d return it for a refund and write terrible things about it here.

 

First Impression:

I won’t lie.  It looks like a futuristic canoe paddle, and at $109, a very pricey canoe paddle.  It’s down right ugly and looks mean as hell, but I don’t think that looks were necessarily the number one priority of Magpul when they designed the SGA.

So where did the money go?  Bolt it on your gun, bring it to your shoulder, and you will see.  Wow!  It fits perfect.  You can adjust the length-of-pull via a set of spacers that are included with the stock.  Your hand sticks to the textured grip, and the grip part of the stock is angled perfectly for your hand, wrist, and arm.  You get the comfort and control of a pistol-grip stock but still have the ability to easily manipulate the safety on a Mossberg product.  If you are going to run any type of optic on your shotgun then there is an easy to attach cheek riser that will put you right where you want to be on the stock for a perfect view through your optic.

Like all Magpul products, this stock is quality gear built for professionals.  Unlike the typical Chinese junk found in a Cheaper Than Dirt catalog, it fits the firearm solidly and is built to take abuse.

 

Matching Forend:

MAG491-BLK_1Magpul also makes a matching forend for the SGA.  I have Surefire dedicated weapons lights mounted on my shotguns and so I haven’t had the opportunity to fire a shotgun with this forend mounted, however a family member has a short-barreled Mossberg 590 and has this forend on board.  It has a great fit and feel.  It is interesting to note that if you plan on running your shotgun(s) with this forend and a Mossberg vented barrel shroud then you may find yourself having to slightly modify the forend as it will rub the barrel shroud.  The forend gives enough to grip and enough barrel coverage that there is little chance that you will burn your booger hooks on the hot barrel.  You may be better off to run the shotgun without the barrel shroud.  If you image search for photos of this setup you won’t find any photos of the Magpul forend and a barrel shroud.

 

Afterthoughts:

After mounting the Magpul SGA stock on my Mossberg 590 and shooting punishing full-powered rifled slugs, I no longer find the stock ugly. In fact, it has made my otherwise boring buckshot / rifled-slug launcher into a futuristic looking, fun to shoot, bad-ass. I like it so much that not only and I going to keep it, but I bought another one for another Mossberg 590. They are definitely worth the price.

 



September 2015 Upgrades & Improvements

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AK Philosophy / Thoughts / Takeaways / Personal Opinions

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woman AK


By Fordy Smith

 You are entering a no butt-hurt allowed zone:

 

Underfolding Stocks:

Underfolders look cool, but underfolders suck. Cheek weld sucks. Forearm support sucks. Ergonomics suck. IMO they should never be your “go to” AK unless its all you have, or you have a significant storage space issue. If you need an AK to jump out of a plane with, or in case your tank runs out of gas, there may be a role for them. Even then, any number of folding stock options are vastly superior in literally every way.

 

Bolt Hold Open Features:

Bolt hold-open mags (and bolt hold open anything on an AK) suck. They change how the AK is designed to operate and forces you to try to run a completely non-AR platform like a partial AR. But why?

Safety levers with the bolt hold-open cut out suck. The safety lever on an AK is designed as an idiot proof dust cover. Yes AK’s are very reliable by design. But a lot of crap can fit in that stupid bolt hold-open hole that is now permanently exposed. You are introducing a weakness into a strong design, all so that you can placate some range boss / safety nazi that doesn’t understand not all bolts hold open, and who can’t for some reason see a 20 cent fluorescent orange chamber flag? Keep the AK like it was designed and find a different range.

 

Extended Safeties:

Krebs style / extended safeties are cool, but completely unnecessary. I had a hard on for one in theory, but when I visited Rifle Dynamics in Las Vegas the petite Casey showed me her AK, and low and behold it had the standard safety lever. I asked her about the Krebs lever and she said she wanted to learn to run the AK with the original safety and she had no problems whatsoever doing it. So I put ordering one on hold and ran the class with a standard lever and was every bit as quick as those with the big levers. There’s really no downside to them, but in my opinion, unless you have very small hands, zero advantage to them at all.

 

Magazine Pouches:

Double mag pouches suck. Aside from the theoretical advantage of being able to quickly reload slightly quicker 8 times while standing/running (LOL!) they are absolutely ridiculous when prone. Even laying on a single stack mag pouch is hard enough, but two? Forgetabowdit. If you need to carry more mags than what a single stack rig offers, carry them somewhere else. You’re not going to reload that many times while not behind cover anyway.

 

AK Accessories:

Don’t hang so much crap on your gun. This has been much less of a problem with AK’s until recently, but with their rising popularity comes the inevitable eye rolling Christmas tree decorating nonsense that AR’s have struggled with for the last couple decades. A red dot or a scope, and maybe a light. That is it, unless you’re actually, really running night vision, though even then it’s probably on your helmet and not your rifle anyway.

Fore-grips are stupid. AK already comes with the perfect ergonomic fore grip. It’s called a magazine. Bipods on AK are stupid. AK already comes with a very good, perfectly spaced mono-pod. It’s called a magazine.

 

Drum Magazines:

Drum mags are stupid. You’re only saving like 2 or 3 seconds per 100 rounds (you don’t think you’re firing that many rounds out in the open away from cover do you?) and you lose your ergo grip, your mono-pod and you make an already not lightweight weapon way heavier for no real gain. There may be some specialty rolls for them, but ask yourself why the professionals rarely, if ever, run them when they easily could. If they pass on them, you should too. Odds are overwhelming that you’re not doing it better than they are doing it.

 

Iron Sights:

AK iron sights are fine! Yes, they take some getting used to. We’re used to aperture sights on AR’s and when you first look through AK sights they don’t seem as eye friendly. But that’s how they were designed. The rear sight is much further away from your eye, which is why its shaped like that. Basically like 99% of pistols out there at a similar distance from the eye using the “line up the 3 squares” method, and you’re not running out to put round aperture sights on your pistols are you? Rifle Dynamics did come up with a smart and simple modification whereby they round off the outside corners to reduce unnecessary right angles and naturally draw the eye to the center/front post, but beyond that leave the sights alone and learn to use them.

 

The AK’s Sight Radius Is Too Short? :

ar-vs-ak-sight-radius

We also hear how bad the AK sights are because the sight radius is too short. Oh really?  Check out the photo to the above.

Looks about the same to me. Of course some will point out that a full rifle length AR will have a sight radius advantage over an AK. Um, duh. So? Does that mean that the M4 sight radius sucks? Not to mention hardly anyone runs 20 inch AR’s anymore anyway. But if you really, really have to have a long iron sight radius, and you’re a MOA snob that likes to rag on AK’s for some reason, prepare to get served, hard:

15-love, buddy roe.

 

AK’s Aren’t Accurate? :

This ties nicely into the “AK’s aren’t accurate” zeitgeist. AK’s in both major calibers are easily “minute of man” accurate for hundreds of meters with the sights they come with.  Don’t buy the hype that AK’s aren’t accurate.


 

How much accuracy do you need?

 

AK Stocks Are Too Short? :

Warsaw length stocks are FINE! I’m 6 feet tall with relatively long arms. I used to be a length-of-pull snob. I’ve reformed. This is how the gun was designed. Some will say that the (slightly) shorter Warsaw stock is because the malnourished commies were smaller, or because they wore heavier clothes or whatever. Most in the class ran their AK’s with Warsaw length stocks with absolutely no issues at any distance at any application. When you’re holding the AK out in front of you for any length of time, you never, ever think to yourself “wow I really wish the fulcrum of this weight was further out”.

I especially love the SBR/”truck gun” phenomenon where guys pay big money and go through the hassle of building a “shorty” only to put long stocks on them (and sometimes blast “directors”) that make the gun maybe a couple of inches shorter in practical applications. Yet then those same guys will run that ridiculous “pistol brace” thing on something else and act like it’s some ground breaking concept. But hey, they can clear all those rooms 2% better. Or something. I guess. Whatever. Embrace the Warsaw length stocks; they are how the platform was designed.

Conclusion: AK sights suck and the platforms are inaccurate: myths BUSTED.

 

Parting Notes:

Whatever you intend on running, get training and see how it actually works for you. The range isn’t even close to sufficient vetting of gear and kit, and the mirror at home dang sure isn’t.

Keep it simple. Get training. Get in shape. Vote. Read history. Stay free.

 

Related Articles:



AK Operators Union / Center-T Class

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Local-47-blk1


by Fordy Smith

 

What & Where:

This was a 2 day class to learn how to operate the AK platform the Russian way. I ran a Russian Saiga AK in 7.62 with iron sights, a standard safety lever, and Warsaw length stock.

The training was at the Valor Ridge range in Harrogate, Tennessee. Beautiful range and facility that is rapidly building a reputation for some of the best training you can get. Its Reid Henrich’s range, but for this course he was just a student on the firing line with the rest of us. The instructors were Rob Ski from the AK Operators Union (Local 47-74) and “The Dimas” from Center-T. Dima is short for Dmitry which is both their names.

 

Ammunition:

This is an approximately 1200 round class (around 1000 rifle and 200-300 pistol).

 

Equipment:

Equipment is up to you, just show up with a reasonably zeroed AK, at least 3 GOOD mags, a handgun of your choice, and whatever kit you decide to run with.

When in doubt, keep it simple, like AK itself. Show up with EMPTY mags. Every drill is specific. It helps a LOT if you have loose rounds in a water-resistant ammo can or equivalent. Mark your mags prior to class to make life easier during class.

 

Day 1:

Introduction and safety brief, then right into it. First drill was a 3 station round-robin that didn’t make a whole lot of sense to us at the time but ended up being a preview for day two. At the time it seemed like they were evaluating us for their benefit, but after the second day it was clear that this was to give us a baseline to evaluate ourselves and our progress at the end of the class. Very interesting approach and an excellent method of instruction.

Most drills were from a 15 to 20 meter “dress-right-dress” firing line. Some movement drills were done in teams of two while the rest watched.

Next was proper AK rifle presentation. Shoulders squared, lean forward, weak foot slightly in front, elbows down, weak hand gripping the mag with thumb forward. Index finger safety discipline as always. If you have a proper grip and body position there is no need for the internet-trendy Heisman stiff-arm 3-gun champion wanna-be grip that dominates the AR world on the internet right now. While they stress that they are giving you tools for your toolkit, they also make it very clear that this is how they run their rifle that they invented and perfected, from conscripted private to elite SF operators, and ask that you please consider the fact that they just might know their stuff (spoiler alert: they know their stuff). It’s also very ergonomic to hold and shoot it this way once you get used to it.

Every drill is practiced and repeated and dry fired many, many times, and then you drill down range empty yet again to check your target.

We then did the same presentation but with the strong foot forward. Doesn’t seem like a big difference, but from a comfort/ergonomics perspective its different enough to justify training from. While weak leg forward is preferred, when shooting after moving, you never know which foot might happen to be forward when you need to shoot so you need to be comfortable with both.

After every string of fire, they teach the “triple check” of a slight dip of the muzzle to check what you just shot at, a quick check of the chamber (to make sure the bolt is forward and you have no double feeds/etc, then a right 230 degree sweep followed by a left 130 degree sweep (I made those numbers up but the point is you can sweep a lot more area from your strong side so do that so you adequately check your six as well).

The two basic tiers of malfunctions were covered. The first is a bad round/light primer strike/etc. Rifle is running fine and you still have ammo but the round didn’t go off. First thing if you are operating in a team is to let your team know your gun is down by shouting “PROBLEM!” They recommend the over the top “AK roll” with the stock under your forearm for stability and control. Over the top puts the rifle in the most stable and controllable position as well as allows you to clearly view the charging handle, chamber and ejection port. Doing it underneath like everyone does on YouTube is basically running it in the blind. That might work fine on the range but under stress with gross motor skill degradation introduces a lot of risk for absolutely no upside. Much emphasis is placed on, however you decide to charge the handle, the ejection port area is kept completely clear. If you block it with your charging hand, you can easily introduce a double feed/stovepipe. Most charged the rifle with the meaty part of their palm facing towards them and it worked flawlessly.

The next malfunction was the double feed. It was only demonstrated, but a few guys ended up getting them for real during a drill. They showed how easy it was to introduce one by charging the rifle with your hand (or ground) blocking the ejection port. However it happens, you need to clear it by first removing the magazine and then fully racking the charging handle a few times, then back in with a magazine and charge the chamber. You do NOT want to immediately start racking the handle because that might just keep ramming the double feed into itself and might even turn it into a triple feed/etc. Again, let your team know by shouting “PROBLEM!” so they know to cover you while you get your gun back up.

How do you know when to reload versus when you had a malfunction? If Dirty Harry couldn’t count to 6 in a gunfight there’s no way you’re going to be able to count to 30. Easy: If you’ve been shooting a fair amount on a mag and it goes “click” its 100% safe to assume its out. If you happen to have a few rounds in your mag and happened to have a bad round/light primer strike/etc, just keep it simple and reload. That will clear the malfunction and top you off. If you have time to see the discarded mag has rounds left in it, and you have time to pick it up and pocket it, great. Otherwise reload and move on. If you’re not sure, do your malfunction drill. Worst case you charge an empty mag one extra time. Even then you’ve only wasted a second or less. AK was designed to be ran without the last round hold open feature that we’ve been falsely conditioned into thinking is an indispensable firearm foundation. You came here to learn the AK the AK way. Why wouldn’t you do it?

To reload, you tuck the stock slightly under your arm, grab a new mag, and with it still in your hand you use your thumb to sweep out the old mag. Its internet trendy right now to “slice” the old mag out with the new mag, and that of course works, but its less desirable because when you have tunnel vision and gross motor skill degradation you’re introducing more to look at and more to do with your hands. Using your thumb is preferred because “hands find hands”. Even in the dark or under stress, you can always put one hand to your other hand without having to look at it or practice it a million times. Index your thumb to the bottom of the trigger guard (just in front of your grip hand) and sweep the old mag out. You can do all this while looking at your surroundings. You will find the trigger guard because of where it is in relation to your grip hand. As always, step out of the line of fire. Then slightly rotate the rifle clockwise so you can see the mag well and lock the mag in place, then roll counter-clockwise so you can see the chamber and the handle you’re about to grab and charge over the top, then back on target.

After first learning the under the mag charge technique from the internet, the over the top has clear benefits especially under stress. Hands find hands and you can see what you’re doing as well as keeping the rifle under control the best. That said, if you run a large optic that sits on top of the dust cover you may have to go under. Or maybe you just prefer it. Or maybe it helps you shave a tenth off your buzzer time in laboratory conditions. Cool. But as a rule over the top seems like the superior charging method. That’s how those who invented the rifle and run it at the highest levels recommend and that’s good enough for me. Issue: settled.

Next was forward and left and right movement. Nothing intricate, just simple, natural movements based on walking. A working knowledge of the difference between left and right prior to class would definitely help, but even directional fluency isn’t enough to avoid messing that up sometimes.

With each new building block skill learned, previous ones are reintroduced and integrated. So moving in any direction to shoot you need to be prepared to clear a simulated malfunction. They simulate it by saying “problem” to which you respond by shouting “PROBLEM!” (to alert your team) while MOVING out of the line of fire and racking another round and back on target. After each string of fire you do your triple check: target, chamber, surroundings.

The Squatting position was covered, as this is the quickest way to get low and on target, as well as a very instinctual reaction to things like unexpected incoming fire. In other words, there’s a good chance you will be squatting anyway. The advantages are ease of transition (including returning to standing and moving) however it’s not as stable a firing position as kneeling. Practiced are shoulders squared as well as either foot forward, because you can’t always control how you will be positioned when you need to squat. Rate of fire while squatting is slightly slower than other positions as you don’t want to fall back onto your butt, but it’s still a pretty good instinctual firing position you can transition into quickly. Just because you are squatting doesn’t mean you won’t have a malfunction of course (“PROBLEM!”). After each string of fire, do your triple check.

Kneeling transition was then covered, again with your preferred weak leg forward but also with your strong leg forward. Short step, shoulders forward just like the first standing presentation you learned, but now move down as you step. It was a gravely range with some puddles after a rain, so many of us were glad we had high-speed tip of the spear tactical knee pads!

Wait a second, some of you have knee pads on? Aw hell naw! That’s cheating, get those things off! Knee pads build negative training habits, like slamming your knees to the ground in total comfort, but unless you wear them all day every day, that’s obviously not something you want to do. Even without them, kneeling transitions to a gravel surface is quick and secure as long as you get the fundamentals right. As always, “PROBLEM!” and triple check: target, chamber, surroundings.

After every series of drills, when its time to check the target you show the instructors you are clear the Russian way: mag out, turn it around, bold held rearward so they can see both chamber and mag follower to assure both are empty. When you are verified clear you point rifle at your target and dry fire one meaningful aimed shot, put the safety back on and then you can relax. For a couple of seconds, but then its time to put your empty mag into the gun and dry fire your way down the range with a series of random commands of the things you’ve learned so far. Step forward, reaction left, reaction right, squat, problem, kneel, etc in random order. If you finish a movement before everyone else, start your triple check, but be prepared to re-engage before you finish. Any problem/malfunction while standing requires you to step out of the line of fire while you clear it.

Hits and misses (generally anything off a notebook sized sheet of paper that’s glued into a torso sized piece of cardboard is a miss) are marked and 5 push ups for each miss are prescribed to help cure accuracy deficiency syndrome.

During lunch the CEO of DDI (an American AK company) showed up and talked about his company, some upcoming products and developments as well as brought out a full auto AK for anyone who wanted to try. Coming up are some exciting stamped and milled AK’s as well as some that shoot those weird bullets that look like a plastic roll of nickels, whatever those are. ;) Rumor has it they will actually even work too, unlike some attempts by others. Stay tuned.

The rest of the day was more integration and practice of what was learned so far. After every drill we showed clear the Russian way, put in an empty mag and dry fired our way down the range to look at our targets.

 

Day 2:

We began with a review of the drills and skills from Day 1, and then on to new things.

First was prone transition (to and from). Basically it starts out the same as kneeling, but then you put a hand to the ground, transition the rifle to the forearm stabilization from previous drills, get prone, rest the rifle on the mag like a mono-pod and keep your strong side leg “cocked” in case you have to transition back up quickly. If you will be there longer, the legs spread apart with ankles flat against the ground applies.

After that we incorporate moving left and right while prone. The theory being if you see an enemy go prone in the grass, you will likely fire towards where you last saw him, and that’s likely what they will do with you. So after going prone in most situations, you would usually want to slide left or right. Some say that you shouldn’t rest a rifle on the mag because that could cause a feeding issue, but this is how the rifle and mag were designed. Any mil-spec rifle and quality mag will not have a problem shooting it this way and this is how it was designed and intended to be fired. After every string of fire, check the target, check the chamber, check your surrounding.

Malfunctions and reloads while prone are discussed and practiced extensively. First of all, “PROBLEM!” Secondly, roll the rifle so the charging handle is up and clear the malfunction. For a reload, check the chamber, rotate clockwise, grab a mag, sweep the trigger guard with your thumb (hands find hands) while looking down-range /a round, glance at the mag well while you put the new one in, rotate it counterclockwise, charge it keeping your hand clear of the ejection port, place the rifle back on the mag and back in the fight. Do all of this while STAYING LOW! Only raise your head/rifle/etc as high as you absolutely need to, only as long as you absolutely need to. Threat over? Check target, check chamber, check surroundings.

As always, drills are building blocks and are integrated into all lessons.

The firing line was divided into three groups and each sent to one of three round robin stations. Briefly covered was running with an AK. Basically you hold the rifle under your forearm facing forward with one hand. Its way more stable than it sounds. That’s why the under the forearm position is the foundation for so many transitions, reloads and malfunctions, etc.

On to a quick discussion on cover and concealment, and then an intro into how to “pie the corner” to clear a room. The younger Dima ran this station and did a tremendous job showing us so much in so little time. Covered and practiced were standing and kneeling, left and right. Along with this was shooting on the opposite shoulder. They said that while there is an application for changing hand positions, the fastest and simplest way is to keep your hands where they are and switch shoulders only, and (in most cases) look with your opposite eye. I found it much easier (and only a little slower) to close my right eye while doing this but your situation may vary.

In either case, LEAN OVER to get the next slice of pie. This reduces your exposure. Target engagement begins as soon as you see a portion of the target, not the whole thing. You give the bad guy one eye and an ear for a target, he gives you half a chest and an arm. Pretty good trade-off. Also keep your rifle straight up and down (normal position) and do not “cant” it because your sights will clear before your barrel will and you don’t want to shoot the wall or door frame. By keeping it straight you know if you see the target with your sights, you will be able to engage it with the physics stuff that comes out of the end of the barrel.

We then moved to the longer distance stage with Rob Ski where we checked our zeros at about 50 meters, and then confirmed at petite silhouette steel targets at around 175 yards. Rob is a great instructor and motivator. Even though I only had single stack mag rigs, I found it really hard to crane my neck up enough to see the target in front of the sights. I got some hits but missed more than I hit. Others around me with optics were hitting more than I was, but I knew better than to blame it on the iron sights. Before I could adjust, it was time to move on to the next station. I was hoping I’d get another chance at those targets later.

Next was the pistol section. The bearded Dima who barely speaks english was running that station. We had already seen him operate the AK at a ridiculously high level, and even though he was always in charge of one group of 5 guys, this was his station with no interpreter. That said, he ended up being one of the best shooting instructors I’ve ever had. The old adage of “amateurs practice until they get it right, professionals practice until they can no longer get it wrong” is true, as he demoed everything with ninja level precision, yet was also somehow able to convey the information to us very well. Covered were precision shooting at typical pistol distances, the proper way to run (and stop) with a pistol, aimed and rapid fire shooting, shooting while moving (with and without using the sights) and drawing/reholstering techniques from a philosophical standpoint. Despite the language barrier, we always knew exactly what he was trying to tell us. I’m amazed how much I got out of the pistol section of an AK class from an instructor who doesn’t speak much english!

Soon it was time for the “final test”. This was also a 3 station round robin but with some slight modifications. The “pie the corner” station had t-shirts over the targets, which still had notebook paper sized targets beneath them. You were expected to shoot the paper areas only based on prior practice. Standing and kneeling, left and right corner. Misses meant push ups. Surprisingly most of us kept most or even all rounds on the paper.

We then lined up and on command, ran with the AK about 50 meters to the next station. The slowest two in the group do push ups. We then shot a pistol drill from concealment. Kneeling left and right, then run (and properly stop) then engage another target, then run and stop and engage another target.

Then we run to the long distance station and go prone for our final 3 rounds. Wait, what? My chance at redemption at the 175 meters station, and I only have 3 rounds? I didn’t regret my decision to run the class with irons one bit, but come on, only 3 rounds? What if I don’t hit any? With the pressure on I focused on the front sight and squeezed the trigger…miss. Crap! But something just didn’t feel right. It was my mag rig I was laying on like last time. I rotated it away and got that much further to the ground, stabilized my magazine and grip and took a couple deep breaths as the other shooters sent rounds down range. Some hit steel, some didn’t, and all were good shooters so I couldn’t beat myself up too bad if I didn’t connect with irons. But I really wanted this. Shooter number 2, send it! Breathe, relax, aim, squeeze. The beautiful sound of ringing steel and Rob yelling “HIT!” The other guys take their turn, and I know I have one more in the pipe and that’s it. The end of the class. I really want to go out on a high note by hitting two in a row. I think what I need to do now is to-”shooter number 2, send it!” Oh, ok. One deep breath and I know I have under two seconds before I start to shake. I see that little half-sized target taking up my entire front sight but I’m not aiming at the target; I’m aiming at an imaginary dime sized bulls eye in the middle of the target while focusing on the front sight so hard I can see the pores in the metal. The gritty but short and light G2 trigger breaks. The dust flies. Will I spend the long drive home wishing I ran the 2 MOA Aimpoint that I had in my range bag the whole time? Will I be an iron sights martyr? Smack! “HIT!” Not today, mother fucker.

Five push ups for my one miss and I was glad to do them. What a great way to end a great class. We policed our gear and trash and assembled for our class picture and graduation certificates and SWAG.

 

Conclusion:

Over all I highly, highly recommend you take this class if you run, have or even like AK’s. There are many great training opportunities available from some widely regarded instructors. They all will make you better. I’ve taken a few and intend on taking a lot more. But for an AK I really don’t think you can do better than an AKOUL / Center-T class. They only do a few a year, so try to make it to one if you can. Class sizes are limited and the student to instructor ratio is low 5 to 1. And you’re learning the AK the way it was meant to be learned, taught by those who don’t just like it or happen to be good at running it, but highly trained, tip of the spear operators who can honestly say “this is my rifle”.

 


Related Articles:

Savannah Arsenal’s Ak47 / AK74 Page

AK Operator’s Union: Class Gear & Kit Review

AK Philosophy / Thoughts / Takeaways / Personal Opinions

Nutnfancy’s AR vs. AK

 



What Distance To Zero Your .22LR Conversion Kit Equipped AR-15 or Dedicated .22LR AR-15

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AR-15 Conversion Kit



The shortage and rising prices of ammunition has made dedicated .22LR AR-15 rifles, and conversion kits for 5.56mm/.223 caliber AR-15 rifles very popular.  Unfortunately the recent shortage of .22LR ammunition has made it hard to feed them if you didn’t already stockpile (hoard) .22LR ammunition.  If you are lucky enough to have access to .22LR ammunition then the dedicated .22LR AR-15 rifles or the conversion kits for your 5.56mm/.223 caliber AR-15 rifles are fun for target shooting and plinking, and can be a great tool for teaching new shooters without the loud noise and high price of full-size center-fire ammunition.



What Distance To Zero For .22LR Ammo With AR Style 2.5″ Tall Sights:

A friend recently acquired one of Colt’s .22LR M4 rifles made by Walther Firearms and asked if I would help zero the sights at the appropriate distance.  I had recently written about my research regarding What Distance To Zero Your .22LR Rifle, but I had never really taken dedicated .22LR AR-15 rifles seriously until I was asked to help zero this rifle.  Any traditional .22LR rifle has its sights mounted close to the bore, and traditionally red-dots are always mounted as close to the bore as possible.  I couldn’t see how you could have anything but a terrible .22LR ballistic trajectory with AR-15 sights that are 2.5″ above the bore.

Having been granted the opportunity to play with this rifle for a few days I ran a few zero distance calculations through an iPhone/iPad application called “Ballistic” using data for CCI’s 36-grain Mini-Mag ammunition, and I couldn’t believe how ignorant I had been. You can achieve very flat trajectories from .22LR ammunition and 2.5″ sights.  I played with several distances and tweaked it until I found the optimum zero distance of 25 yards.



Benefits of a 25 Yard Zero:

AR15 Sights, CCI Mini-Mag Trajectory

  • Note the graph above. From a distance of 13 yards from the muzzle, all the way out to approximately 89 yard, the point-of-impact of the bullet will never be +/- 1″ from point-of-aim. This means that you should be able to hit a 2″ target without any hold-over / hold-under correction anywhere within 13 yards to 89 yards!
  • The highest distance above point of aim is exactly 1″ at 50 yards.
  • At 100 yards you can expect your point-of-impact to be 2.37″ below your point-of-aim. To give you a visual, you will make hits below the point-of-aim less than the height that the sights set above the bore. This is pretty impressive, especially considering that you might be using a red-dot optic, such as the Bushnell TRS-25, with a 2 minute-of-angle dot (dot that appears 2″ in diameter at 100 yards).


Dedicated .22LR Rifle, or .22LR Conversion Kit?:

If you have a dedicated .22LR rifle then you have a simple task of zeroing your rifle’s optic and/or iron sights.  If you have a regular AR-15 style rifle that is zeroed for 5.56mm/.223 caliber ammunition and you want to use a .22LR adaptor, such as those manufactured by CMMG, then you will have a slightly more complicated setup depending on how you have your rifle configured as the .22LR ammunition and the 5.56mm NATO ammunition have completely different ballistic trajectories.  If you sights are set for one, they won’t be set for the other.  Keep reading to get some ideas of how to overcome this hurdle.



Shooting .22LR Out Of A 5.56mm/.223 Caliber Rifle With Conversion Kit:

You may have a AR-15/M-4 zeroed with the 50-yard “battle-sight zero” that gives you an awesome flat trajectory with the 5.56mm/.223 caliber.  You might assume that if you use a .22LR adaptor that your rifle is zeroed for the .22LR also. You would be wrong.  The .22LR round is much less powerful than the  5.56mm/.223 caliber battle cartridge and has a much shorter range. If you attempt to shoot at typical .22LR distances you will find the bullets impacting much lower than the point-of-aim. That is not fun, and it doesn’t help someone who is trying to learn to shoot. So what to do?  Keep reading and find the description that most closely matches your rifle’s configuration.



Carry Handle Rear Sight:

If you have a rifle with a carry handle (already “battle sight zeroed” with the 5.56mm/.223 caliber ammo as described on the AR-15 page) then the solution is easy.  You can simply set up a target at that distance, move your rear sight up a couple of clicks, shoot three rounds to see where they hit in relation to your point-of-aim, and then repeat until your point-of-aim and point-of-impact are the same. It is very important that you remember where your zero setting for 5.56mm ammo is, and how many clicks you moved your sight to be zeroed with the 22LR ammo. I would advise you to write down these settings on an index card and leave it in your rifle case. Leave the rifle set to its 5.56mm/.223 caliber setting, and adjust the sights when you want to shoot .22LR ammunition. Remember, write down your settings. I can guarantee that in six months when you pull your rifle out of the closet you will have forgotten your settings.



Flat-Top Receiver With Front Back-Up Iron Sight:

You may have a rifle with a flat-top receiver and a free-floating forearm, or some other type of system that doesn’t use the traditional triangle front sight.  Instead it requires a front backup iron sight. An option might be to run two forward backup iron sights. Keep in mind that most rear backup iron sights are only adjustable left and right. You can only adjust elevation with the front sight. Set up the most forward front sight for 5.56mm, and another just behind it for .22LR. When you want to shoot .22LR just drop the front forward sight (the one zeroed for 5.56mm/.223 caliber) and raise the second one (that is zeroed for .22LR).

Note 1: This setup is intended for rifles that don’t have the traditional triangle front sight tower, but rather a rail along the entire length of the top of the rifle. 

Note 2:  You will have to use two front sights because with 99% of the backup iron sight sets you adjust elevation with the front sight and can only make windage adjustments with the rear.



Magnified Optic:

If you have a rifle quipped with a magnified optic (a scope) with simple cross-hairs or reticle without any bullet drop compensation you will want to first set your rifle so that it is zeroed for 5.56mm.  You can mark the turrets with a Sharpee marker or paint pen, or write down the values on an index card that you will keep in your rifle’s carry case. I would recommend writing down the values as the paint or ink can easily wear off and your will not have a clue of where to set your scope when you want to shoot. You can then adjust your sights to zero the rifle for .22LR. If you have a quality optic then you should be able to easily adjust your optic back and forth to match the type of ammunition that you are shooting. I would suggest storing the rifle with it set for the 5.56mm/.223 caliber ammunition as that will be the ammunition of choice should you need to employee the rifle in an emergency situation. Again, write down your settings for both types of ammunition.

If you have a rifle scope with some type of bullet drop compensation you will first want to zero the rifle scope per the manufacture’s instruction with 5.56mm/.223 caliber ammunition.  Then you can set up targets at various distances and use the bullet drop compensation marking and figure out which marking coincides with point of impact with the .22LR ammunition.  Example:  I have a 4x ACOG.  I figured out that point-of-impact at 50 yards is with the 500 meter mark, and 100 yard POI is with the 600 meter mark.  Easy.  Again, write it down on a card and leave it in your rifle case.  You will forget your numbers.  I promise.



Red-Dot Optic:

If you have a red-dot optic you may be able to mark your optic with both settings. Adjustment turrets on some optics may have numerical values that you can record, and some my not. You may have to simply record the number of clicks from one setting to the other, i.e. “7 clicks up”. Some optics adjustments may have clicks, but rather just enough friction to allow you to move the adjustment, but hopefully tight enough not to move with the rifle’s vibration. In that case you may be stuck with the “Sharpee option”. Even better than a Sharpee might be to use and engraving tool to make small marks to show each setting. Make darn sure that you have the optic set exactly where you want it before you start marking it up with an engraving tool.



Conclusion:

These are only suggestions. You are smart. Although these techniques have worked for me, you may find a solution that works even better. I’d love to hear about it.



Related Articles:

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AK Operator’s Union: Class Gear & Kit Review

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AK Operator's Union


by Fordy Smith

I recently reviewed the AK Operators Union two day class that I attended in October 2015 at the Valor Ridge Range in Harrogate, Tennessee.  The follow is a gear review for all of the hardware that I ran at the class.

 


UW Gear Swamp Fox:

Swampfox 4

UW Gear

UW Gear’s Swamp Fox

Like all UW Gear products, this rig is magazine specific (for proper fit) and comes with their tabs that hold the mags in place. It’s not as fast as some other solutions, but its close, and does an excellent job of keeping the mags secure until you need them. It’s also silent to get to the mags and doesn’t have scream annoying velcro mating call.

The Swamp Fox holds 4 mags in single stack configuration with some webbing on the side that you can fasten some extra things if you want. I almost didn’t get this rig because while it holds 4 mags, it would have held 5 if they didn’t include the gap in the middle. I initially thought this was wasted space. After running it for a day I saw real quick the logic behind that.

The gap in the center makes it easy to open the rig up and get fully prone, as well as helps you stay cooler than solid designs. It holds mags securely and you don’t even notice you’re wearing it. The only negative, if you can call it that, is putting mags back in the pouch one-handed when its wet takes a little effort. This is only an “on paper” issue for when you are running a high volume class with constant mag changes all day. It’s also a fraction of a second slower than some other “speed reload” rigs.

This is also not of any concern for any application other than recreational competition. You’re not going to burn through five 30 round mags without hiding behind cover and regrouping anyway, so a few lost tenths of a second is meaningless, and if you ever intend on going prone with a double (or triple LOL!) stack mag rig please let me know so I can be there to laugh and be amused.

This was the best kit I’ve ran or seen ran. Put it on your short list, but they are usually backlogged for several months, as is often the case with craftsmen who make good things and make it well. In the dozen or so pieces of kit I have or have seen people use, I’ve seen exactly zero defects of any kind. None. Not one loose thread or anything. I highly recommend all of their gear, but this is the best designed and thought out one they have. It carries what you need, keeps it secure until you need it, keeps you cool and keeps you low.

 


UW Gear Bandoleer:

UW Gear Bandoleer
UW Gear Bandoleer

This is more of a grab and go rig. It holds 3 mags (they have a version now that holds 4 mags in a double stack configuration with space for you to weave in something else) with pouches the same as the Swamp Fox. It’s primarily designed to sit on the side/hip area, but can be rotated to act like a de facto canted chest rig, and you can pull it to the side if you need to go prone.

It’s a good rig for what it’s designed for, but the Swamp Fox is clearly better for almost every application. For a quick grab and go rig though, its hard to beat. Very good design and excellent quality and craftsmanship.

 


Blackhawk Knee Pads:

blackhawk kneepads

These are quality, heavy-duty knee pads that can be had for really cheap despite their name. Like under $20 cheap (in 2015) if you shop around. Good for some training and competition applications, but probably a little too bulky for all day (or more) usage. Knee pads are kind of catch 22 anyway; you only really need them when you’re doing a high volume of repetitious training, but if you use them for that you will likely build/reinforce negative training habits like slamming your knee into the ground harder than you otherwise would.

They are good pads, but it’s probably better to go with something lighter/less bulky or nothing at all and just train around reality instead of huge padding you probably won’t have on when you need it in the first place anyway.

 


Beltman Bullhide Belt:

The Beltman Bullhide Gunbelts

These are exceptional leather carry/duty/EDC belts. I wanted to run this because it’s what I wear a lot, and I knew I didn’t want to wear some tacticool wrestling champion double bling belt system just to carry a pistol and a couple mags. A good belt is the anchor of most holster/mag carry systems, but leather belts are not exactly the best kit for high volume training classes getting prone and crawling through muddy gravel all day. It did its job well and didn’t fail, but wet muddy conditions with that much movement would have been better for a good quality, simple web belt.

 


Bravo Concealment Holster and Double Mag Pouch:

Tough, durable, nothing ever came loose. What you would expect from a good Kydex maker?  There are many good companies out there that make Kydex stuff, but they are definitely a good one.

 


PIG FDT (full dexterity tactical) Gloves:

PIG_700-8

PIG Full Dexterity Tactical (FDT) Alpha Gloves

THese are some of the best 3 season gloves you can get for this application. Excellent protection and dexterity. Highly recommend them. Way better than Mechanix and others and well worth the extra cost. That said, do not spend more for the “alpha touch” gloves that supposedly work on touch screens. Not only do they only marginally and inconsistently work for me on screens, they fit differently (tighter) than the regular ones.

 


Circle 10 Mags:

Circle 10 AK47 Magazine

These are some of the best mags you can get, period. Yes they are one of the more expensive mags, but they are absolute tier one gear. The magazine is the heart of the rifle. Don’t skimp on mags for any serious application. There are great mags out there at lower price points, especially some steel mags, but quality control and current condition vary wildly on a mag by mag basis. Each individual steel mag needs to be tested and vetted many times to take it from “range mag” to a mag you know you can count on. Most of the few AK issues were mag related, and none of them were Circle 10 mags.

 


Arsenal Saiga SGL-21 with AK-74 Style Brake:

SGL2161_1

Gun performed flawlessly, as did everyone else’s who used one. These are getting very hard to find outside the used market and prices are climbing, but they are excellent if you can find one. No issues from anyone’s there. It ate any ammo fed to it.

The only issue was the trigger. Fortunately this was discovered in pre class testing at the range. Not only do Arsenal triggers feel like a gritty sponge, but it wouldn’t reset for the next round on its own unless you jerked it so it became a single shot rifle. Screw that. I wasn’t about to take a 1000 round class while having to press and then pull the trigger back into position every shot, so I did a quick Tapco G2 replacement. Not the greatest trigger either, but it worked well enough.

Their triggers are very well thought out but poorly executed. They have a little lip on the hammer that simulates a double stage feel (sort of) and does an OK job of letting you take out the (crappy, gritty and excessive) pull before the break, but that’s a poor habit pattern to get into with an AK anyway. There are just too many affordable trigger options out there that are way better to justify using the crappy Arsenal trigger.

 


Tula, Wolf and Brown Bear ammo, FMJ and JSP:

Ammo cans mixed with all types, sometimes 2 or 3 types in the same magazine. No accuracy or feeding issues noted.

 


AK Iron Sights:

Opened_Rear_Sight

These sights get a bad rap from people who aren’t used to them, don’t know how to zero them, and have little if any experience behind them actually trying to learn them and get better with them. I was one of those people. That’s why I decided to run the entire class with stock irons. I adapted, and so can you. It didn’t take long to shoot almost as well (and as fast) as the guys with red dots.

Before you hang a ton of stuff off your AK (and definitely before you go screwing with the sights themselves) just stop and think how is it possible for so many millions of soldiers for generations (continuing to this day) to run these sights and pass infantry qualifications at every level? AK iron sights don’t suck; operators behind them who don’t learn them suck with them, that’s all. The sight radius is the same as a stock M4, and the much aligned front sight post only covers 25cm at 100 meters.

Even if you want to run scopes or red dots, you still need to be proficient at AK iron sights. Do it for you. Do it for Lieutenant General Mikhail Timofeyevich Kalashnikov. Do it for AK. Do it.


 


Savvy Sniper Sling:

savy sniper slings

Good sling. High quality made in the USA gear. Works as advertised. The only thing to think about is what kind of attaching method you want (QD, mash, HK, etc). There’s a lot of slings out there that will do the job and this one isn’t cheap, so it’s not necessary to spend this much, but you’ll be glad you did if you do. The only thing I would improve is to add a 2” padded section for the times you go double point and it hangs around your neck if you run it like that (pistol transitions) but otherwise its fine.

 


Glock 19 with XS Big Dot Sights:

This was mostly a rifle class but there was a handgun component. Rifles were all AK variants, but handgun was whatever you wanted. Most brought Glocks but there were a few other types here or there. I ran XS Big Dots because I’m not that experienced with them and want to learn them.

xs big dotThey take some getting used to. At first they will probably increase the size of your groups, and at this point most people will freak out and stop using them. Larger groups frustrated me as well, but I went into it knowing that lots of really good shooters that know a lot more than me say they are some of the best handgun sights you can get so I made up my mind to learn them.

After a few “fliers” that were 100% me, I had several groups just as tight as I’d expect from conventional 3 block pistol sights. More practice is needed, but these sights are very quick to put on target and probably the best for adrenaline dump/gross motor skill degradation/tunnel vision situations.

 


Slip 2000 EWL and EWG:

Slip 2000
Slip 2000 Marine Corps Contract Expanded

What’s the best caliber? What’s better AR or AK? What’s the best “gun lube”? Nothing sets the internet on fire quite like any opinion on anything gun related. Fortunately when it comes to what lubricates the best, we have a clear and proven answer: your mom.

When it comes to semi auto rifles, I decided a while ago to use Slip 2000 for a while to see how it works. I first used their degreaser, and then their “Extreme Weapons Lube” or EWL, and then applied a normal quantity of “Extreme Weapons Grease” (EWG) on the bolt lugs and rail areas.

After 1000 rounds and crawling through the mud, cleanup on everything (except the gas piston which is dry to begin with) was very easy. It seems to lubricate very well and the 1000th round cycled just like the first. It’s also non toxic, which may not be a big deal on any given day cleaning guns, after decades of cleaning a lot of guns…

There are other non toxic options out there. One of the most notable is FrogLube, which I also like and use. I use it on most of my handguns and single/double barrel shotguns. But for semi auto rifles I don’t fully trust it under cold outdoor conditions. There are just too many reports of it gunking up the action because it wasn’t applied correctly. Common mistakes are not degreasing it properly (it doesn’t play well with others) and putting it on too thick. There are plenty of videos and reviews “debunking” these criticisms and showing that it works just fine in cold conditions, but I wanted to try Slip2000 and have been very pleased.

Another popular option is motor oil and lithium grease. There’s nothing wrong with these, and they are certainly cheaper. But I’m happy with Slip2000 and its non toxic and makes clean up a breeze and to me that’s well worth the cost, which isn’t “expensive” to begin with.

 


LAPG Operator Pants:

LAPG Operator PantsI got these cheap on sale at LA Police Gear. All the features of the other much more expensive brands at a fraction of the price. I’ve had and used their name brand products for years and they are usually very good. They do in my experience suffer from a small level of quality control though. For example you will occasionally see a button fall off or a small seam start to unthread, but I’ve never had a catastrophic blowout with any of their branded gear. Any free sewing kit from a hotel and its fixed in a couple of minutes. Good quality, cheap and easy, just like your mom.

 


Spiderco Endura:

Spiderco Endura

We didn’t use knives for the class, but most people had them as part of their EDC. Spiderco obviously makes great knives. However several people had their knives (all brands) fall out onto the ground from their standard deep pocket clip carry while crawling around prone in the gravel and mud. They ended up spending the rest of the class sitting in ammo cans. Just something to think about. This wasn’t a Spiderco issue, as it happened with other pocket clip knifes. Just something to consider.

 


Baseball Cap with Button Removed:

While not a “gear review” by any means (more of a “life hack”) lots of shooters use ball caps, and they are often required at some ranges or agency requals. But the button on the top sucks when you wear a headset, and serves as a little self-contained skull crushing ball peen hammer if you get hit on the head with anything. The vast majority of hats don’t need them, so do yourself a favor and pry that crap off.

 


Related Articles:

Savannah Arsenal’s Ak47 / AK74 Page

AK Operators Union / Center-T Class

AK Philosophy / Thoughts / Takeaways / Personal Opinions

Nutnfancy’s AR vs. AK

 



A Great Red-Dot Optics For .22LR Rifles: Bushnell TRS-25

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Bushnell Red Dot


If you buy a cheap red-dot optic you will usually end up with junk that can not produce a bright enough reticle to be seen in bright sunlight, and probably will not be able to handle the constant abuse of firearm recoil.

The Bushnell TRS-25 (pictured above), while not cheap, is still reasonably priced from around $80 – $120 (depending on where you purchase it, and whether it is on sale or not). The TRS-25 has been tested on .375 H&H Magnum rifles. If it can survive that massive recoil, it certainly can handle the almost non-existent recoil of a .22LR rifle.

The TRS-25 has 11 brightness setting.  I have two of the red-dot sights and I have never needed to use the brightness settings, even on the sunniest of days. It has a 3 MOA red-dot reticle. Mounted to a Ruger 10.22 I zero the red-dot at 20 yards. Bullet impact at 50 yards is still within the upper third of the dot. Point-of-sight and point-of-impact are the same again at 66 yards. At 100 yards the bullet will impact just to bottom of the dot. With the 20 yard zero you will hit what ever you put the dot on out past 66 yards, and will only require slight holdover as your near 100 yards. My two children can routinely hit spent shotgun shells with impunity all the way out past 30 yards, and tennis balls past 60 yards. I have several friends that have these same sights on their Ruger 10/22 rifles and absolutely love them.

Bushnell makes a riser for the TRS-25 that lets you co-witness with you AR-15’s backup iron sights (BUIS) 1/3 low.  Promag makes a mount that will allow you an absolute co-witness with your AR-15’s BUIS.

cowit1-1

Note: Make sure that you use LocTite on the screw when you mount the sight to your rifle. Do not over-torque the mounting bolt as you may accidentally crack the mount.  Keep an extra CR-2032 battery with your rifle. If you leave the TRS-25 turned on it will not automatically shut off and the battery will probably be dead when you go to use it again.

Related Articles:

Savannah Arsenal’s Rimfire Ammunition Page

Savannah Arsenal’s Rimfire Optics & Accessories Page

Savannah Arsenal’s Rimfire Conversion Kits Page

Savannah Arsenal’s Ruger 10/22 Rifle Page

Savannah Arsenal’s Henry Arms .22LR Page

Savannah Arsenal’s Marlin 60 .22LR Page

Bushnell Trophy Red-Dot: No-Go!

What Distance To Zero Your .22LR Rifle

What Distance To Zero Your .22LR Conversion Kit Equipped AR-15 or Dedicated .22LR AR-15

CMMG Brand Conversion Kits For AR-15 Rifles




Colt’s .22LR Caliber M4 Carbine

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Colt Walther M4 OPS 22LR


Recently a friend acquired a gently used replica of the Colt M4 rifle in .22LR caliber that is manufactured under license by Walther Firearms. I have seen them advertised in shooting magazines, but until now I had never actually seen or held one. The are sold by Colt and sport the “embattled horse” Colt logo on the lower receiver, and other than the 30-round single-stack magazine being slightly longer than the 30-round magazine of a real AR type rifle, they are pretty much a perfect one-for-one visual replica of the real thing.

 


Introduction:

From Walther’s website: “The Colt M4 Carbine is a spot on .22 LR replica of the current carbine version of the M-16 machine gun issued to U.S. military. It features a carbine length barrel, collapsible stock and removable carry handle. As with the original, the upper and lower receiver is made of high quality aluminum. The Colt M4 Carbine Semi-Automatic Rifle in .22 L.R. is manufactured exclusively by Walther under license from Colt. It is the only genuine Colt tactical rimfire replica available in the world.”

At first I thought that the rifle might simply be a Colt AR-15 lower receiver paired with a dedicated .22LR upper receiver assembly. This is not the case. The actual firearm mechanism fits snugly inside a M4 façade and does not function anything like a real M4 / AR-15 / M-16 type of firearm. In fact, the M4 style barrel with grenade launcher cutout is simply a sleeve that the actual .22LR barrel fits into. While this sound cheap, the rifle actually feels solidly constructed.


 


Features and Observations:

The bolt release is a dummy and does not have any function other than to help make the rifle look authentic.

The forward assist is also a dummy and does not have any function.

The rifle bolt locks to the rear when the last round in the magazine is fired. To release the bolt, eject the empty magazine, load a new magazine, and run the charging handle. The bolt should drop and load a fresh round into the chamber.

The 30-round single stack magazine is longer than a 30-round 5.56mm NATO magazine that it is intending to replicate. They may or may not fit into your magazine pouches. If you can fit a 40-round 5.56mm NATO magazine, then you should be good to go. The magazines do not have metal lips, so I can’t say for sure how long they will last. Buy a few extra.

The particular rifle model is called the “M4 OPS”. It has a railed forend which is not “drop-in” and appears to only be connected to the firearm where the barrel nut is on a real AR-15. The barrel is essentially free-floating as the railed forend doesn’t seem to have any contact points with the barrel. The rifle comes with four of what appear to be Knight’s Armament Corporation brand rail covers, minus the KAC logo. Are they knockoffs? I can’t tell. They serve their purpose on the .22LR rifle, though.

The rear sight is looks just like a real A-2 rear sight. It has dual apertures; on a real AR-15 / M-4 / M-16 the larger for shooting 0-200 meters, and the smaller for shooting longer distances. This feature can serve nothing more than to preserve the authentic AR-15 look since most .22LR bullets drop below supersonic speed around 50 yards, and will have bled off most of their effective squirrel / rabbit killing energy around 100 yards. You won’t be hitting many intended targets past 100 to 150 yards. While the sights seem perfect for a training rifle or “fun gun”, I’m not sure that I would trust it to run on a real 5.56mm NATO battle rifle. I noticed that when you flip between the large and small apertures that it occasionally rotates the windage knob, which will move point-of-impact. Your best bet will be to select which aperture that you prefer to shoot with, adjust the sights for your preferred zero (see below), and then leave the sights alone and don’t ever touch them again. You should be good to go. If you are really paranoid, you can replace them with a higher quality model, but if you can trust your kids not to flip the apertures, then you should be good with the sights that came with the rifle. Just like any removable item on a firearm (optic, light, etc.) be sure to use a dot or two of Loctite thread locker on the mounting screw threads. The rifle’s owner stated that they had trouble with the rifles sights staying zeroed. Upon examination I discovered that the rear sight’s mounting screw had indeed worked itself loose and the rear sight assembly was loose enough to wiggle around on the rail. Easy fix.

On initial examination of the rifle I thought that it might be a good candidate to receive a .22LR suppressor that would stay on the rifle all of the time. After reading the disassembly directions and watching the videos below, I realized that (spoiler alert!) the rifle’s flash-hider is a key component that holds the rifle together (I’m serious… watch the videos), so mounting a suppressor on this particular .22LR AR-15 is not an option (disappointment). Needless to say, you are stuck with the traditional looking A-2 birdcage flash-hider, and a real one with the industry standard 1/2 x 28 threads will not fit.

 


Reliability:

Prior to testing, the rifle was thoroughly cleaned, wiped dry of excess cleaning oil, and then all of the moving parts were lubricated with a very thin film of Lithium grease. I used both magazines that were supplied with the rifle, taking note of how many, if any, malfunctions occurred in which magazine, just in case the magazine was the culprit.

As has been discussed in other sections of Savannah Arsenal, rimfire firearms can be very finicky about what brand of ammunition they prefer. Some guns will run great on a certain brand, while they fail miserably with another. The only way to be sure what your gun will shoot is to try several brands. Remington Golden Bullets and Federal Bulk PackDon’t get frustrated if it doesn’t function with a particular brand. Just try another until you find what works, and then stock up on that brand when ever it is available.

I only had two types of ammunition to test: Remington’s bulk pack 36-grain hollow-point “Golden Bullets” (seen right, top), and Federal’s bulk-pack 36-grain copper washed hollow-points (seen right, bottom).

I first tried a full 30-round magazine loaded with Remington Golden Bullets. Golden Bullets are the manufacturer’s recommended ammunition for the Advantage Arms .22LR conversion kits made for Glock pistols and run great in those guns. They also work great in my two Ruger 10/22 rifles. In the Colt M4 .22LR rifle, however, I could not get a single Remington to successfully feed into the chamber. They would get hung up, not enter the chamber, and jam the gun. I tried downloading the magazine down to 15 rounds to see with less tension of the magazine spring if the gun would function. It didn’t. I also tried the same with the second magazine without any luck. In this particular firearm the Remington ammunition failed miserably. I immediately had a bad feeling that this type of firearm was a bad design, or that at least this individual gun was a lemon.

I fully loaded both magazines with Federal’s hollow-points. They fed and functioned perfectly. I ran seven full magazines loads, for a total of just over 200 rounds, without a single malfunction.

In this gun the Remington ammunition was worthless, while the Federal ammunition ran great. Keep in mind that your results may vary with your individual firearm, but expect good results from the Federal. You should still try a sampling of a couple of hundred rounds of several types of ammunition so that you can truly depend of your firearm.

 


Accuracy:

I was only able to test the rifle at a 25 yard, indoor range. I did not have a proper shooting table to beanbag rest the rifle, but I was able to place a large beanbag on the shooting stall’s reloading shelf and shoot with the rifle’s magazine resting on the beanbag. While this wasn’t the perfect testing environment, it was more stable than I had expected to have in a standup, indoor range.

The rifle will eventually sport a Bushnell TRS-25 red-dot optic co-witnessed with the iron sights using UTG’s Medium Profile Riser Mount, but for this test I only had the factory iron sights.

I zeroed the rifle at 25 yards (see “What Distance You Should You Zero Your .22LR AR-15” farther down this page). I was able to carefully shoot sub golf ball size groups with the rifle crudely rested as described above, and easily shoot baseball size groups off-hand. The accuracy test results, when considering the combination of bulk ammunition and the less than perfect testing environment, were totally acceptable. You should expect even better results with quality ammunition and a decent bench rest shooting position.

For rimfire training and plinking this rifle’s accuracy is perfectly acceptable. I’ll expect even better results after the red-dot is mounted and zeroed. I may try CCI’s Mini-Mag ammo for accuracy and reliability. I’ll update the results as soon possible.

 


How To Disassemble The Colt M4 .22LR Carbine:

Fieldstrip:

According to the rifle’s manual, you are only suppose to break down the rifle into its basic upper and lower components, spray them out with Gun Scrubber, and put a drop of oil in a few key locations. The following video demonstrates the official way to clean the rifle.

 

Full Disassembly:

The manual also states that any further disassembly will void Walther’s excellent warranty. The problem is that .22 ammo is very dirty to shoot, and to properly clean and lubricate the rifle, further disassembly is absolutely necessary. You may choose to follow the manufacture’s cleaning and lubrication recommendations, but if you start to suffer serious reliability issues, you may choose to go ahead and break the rifle down further.

Do not attempt to disassemble the rifle until you have thoroughly studied the rifle’s downloadable instruction manual and watched the disassembly videos farther down on this page. The rifle looks like an AR, but looks are where the similarities end. It doesn’t disassemble anything like an AR, so all of your vast AR expertise is wasted with this rifle. Note that there are several small springs and pins that are under pressure when assembled. Do not attempt to disassemble the rifle if you are standing on a shag carpet. If you launch a spring then you will never see it again. If you are mechanically inclined then you should be able to watch the disassembly videos below and read the owner’s manual and be able to figure it out.

The biggest disassembly-assembly “pain in the ass” appears to be reinstalling the tiny spring and pin that offer resistance to the bolt hold open mechanism. The videos below are very vague with how to take the mechanism apart or how to put it back together. It is really easy to drop the parts, they are easily damaged during installation, and if the spring and pin are missing then the bolt hold open is free to flop down and lock the bolt down at any time. The previous owner had not properly assembled the rifle. The spring was missing and so the bolt hold open mechanism flopped up and down without the tension to normally hold it into place until the empty magazine’s follower could force it into position to lock the bolt open. It would occasionally lock the bolt back even though the magazine wasn’t empty. I simply removed the bolt hold open parts and the rifle ran perfectly without them, except that the bolt didn’t lock back after the last round was fired. I didn’t miss this feature as it isn’t even a requirement of a NATO approved battle rifle. (How many rifles can you think of that lock open after the last round? Not many.)

 

Recommendations:

Watch the videos before you attempt to disassemble the rifle.

When you disassemble the rifle, do not disassemble the bolt hold open mechanism. It is easy to clean around it while it is in place. You will save yourself a huge headache. If you don’t heed my warning, replacement parts can be ordered on from the phone number found on the last page of the instruction manual.

I don’t see any reason to disassemble the trigger mechanism. It looks like a complete pain in the ass. If it is dirty, spray it out with Gun Scrubber, put a few drops of oil as recommended, and you will be good to go. If you are planning to store the rifle for an extended period of time, you can shoot some Break Free or other aerosol gun lubricant into the mechanism, and use an air compressor to blow the excess oil out of the receiver.

I had a lot of luck with placing a couple of drops of gun oil on the trigger mechanism within the lower receiver, and then I placed a thin film of lithium grease anywhere that the bolt has contact within the upper receiver where it travels backwards and forwards.




 


What Distance You Should You Zero Your .22LR AR-15:

I have done a couple of articles on what distance is the best all-purpose zero for a particular rifle / caliber combination. I have never really taken dedicated .22LR AR-15 rifles seriously until I was asked to help zero this rifle. Why even bother? Why would I waste my time with a rifle firing .22LR ammo with sights that are 2.5″ above bore? Any traditional .22LR rifle has its sights mounted close to the bore, and traditionally red-dots are always mounted as close to the bore as possible. I couldn’t see how you could have anything but a terrible .22LR ballistic trajectory with AR-15 sights that are 2.5″ above the bore.

Having been granted the opportunity to play with this rifle for a few days I ran a few zero distances through my ballistics app on my iPad using data for CCI’s 36-grain Mini-Mag ammunition, and I couldn’t believe how ignorant I had been. I played with several distances and tweaked it until I found the optimum zero distance of 25 yards.

 

Benefits of a 25 Yard Zero:

AR15 Sights, CCI Mini-Mag Trajectory

  • Note the graph above. From a distance of 13 yards from the muzzle, all the way out to approximately 89 yard, the point-of-impact of the bullet will never be +/- 1″ from point-of-aim. This means that you should be able to hit a 2″ target without any hold-over / hold-under correction anywhere within 13 yards to 89 yards!
  • The highest distance above point of aim is exactly 1″ at 50 yards.
  • At 100 yards you can expect your point-of-impact to be 2.37″ below your point-of-aim. To give you a visual, you will make hits below the point-of-aim less than the height that the sights set above the bore. This is pretty impressive, especially considering that you might be using a red-dot optic, such as the Bushnell TRS-25, with a 3 minute-of-angle dot (dot that appears 3″ in diameter at 100 yards). If the dot touches the target, you should be able to hit within that dot out to 100 yards.

 


Conclusion:

Based on my experience, here is how I graded it:

  • Fit & Finish: “A-“.  Looks great, but it still isn’t a real AR.  The rear sight assembly isn’t very high quality.
  • Practical Accuracy: “A-“.  I’ll probably change it to an “A” or “A+” when I get to shoot it with a red-dot optic and better ammunition.
  • Ballistics: “A”.  A ballistic trajectory with the rifle’s AR style sights sitting 2.5″ over bore, coupled with a 25 yard zero, give the rifle a very flat trajectory out to 100 yards.
  • Ease of Maintenance: “D”.  This gun isn’t easy to take apart and reassemble for proper cleaning.  It gets a “B” if you are willing to settle for a Gun Scrubber spray cleaning in the field.
  • Reliability:  “A” with the right ammo.  “F” is you try to run the wrong ammunition.

This looks like good rifle for training and plinking. Equip it with a red-dot optic and some type of inexpensive tactical light mounted to the rail system and you will have yourself a serious tactical squirrel killer.

 


Related Articles:

Savannah Arsenal’s Rimfire Ammunition Page

A Great Red-Dot Optics For .22LR Rifles: Bushnell TRS-25

 



October / November 2015 Updates and Improvements

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October / November 2015:



Review of Georgia DNR-WMA Rifle Range Near Richmond Hill / Savannah

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Location and Directions:

From Richmond Hill, Georgia:
  • Follow Hwy 144 approximately 10.3 miles east from Richmond Hill (Hardees Restaurant at Hwy 17 and Hwy 144).
  • Turn left on Kilkenny Road.
  • Range entrance is 0.8 miles on left.
  • Follow unpaved road 0.5 miles to the range.

Hours of Operation:

  • September 16 – March 15:  0900 – 1700
  • Mar. 16-Sept. 15:  0900 – 1800
  • Tuesdays:  Closed
  • Closed on Easter, Thanksgiving and Christmas.

Facilities:

The range is 100 yards with markers denoting 25, 50, 75, and 100 yard distances.

Originally you had to provide your own target stands that have no metal, and that are tall enough so that the bullet will hit the berm after passing through the target.  As of November 2015 they provide and require you to use their stands and targets.

There are approximately 12 shooting tables with a covered awning to keep the sun off of you while shooting.

There are men’s and women’s restroom with running water.

Originally the range facility only included the covered shooting line and a gravel parking lot.  A few years ago it was decided to build an office / restroom building.  This was built at an expense of about 20% of the parking area.  Parking isn’t a big deal during the work week, but poor planning has resulting in crowded parking during weekends.  Also, if space permitted, you use to be able to park right in front of your shooting table.  As you can see from the drone photo at the top of the page, the new building has blocked easy parking access to half of the firing line.  Also, the site planners (or bored range personnel) decided not to allow you to park in front of the other half.  You must park out in the lot, and are before entering the covered firing line you are guided via cattle fences pass the office.  This is very inconvenient as you will probably have to make several trips from your vehicle to your shooting area so as to carry your target stands, rifle cases, shooting gear boxes, etc.  You should entertain the idea of hiring a Sherpa to carry all of your gear.  The range definitely lacks fung shui, and it is obvious that it was not designed by experienced planners.


Fees:

Ga DNR Range FeesEach shooter will need a Georgia Outdoors Recreational Pass (GORP), unless they are 15 years old or younger, 65 years old or older, or who have a valid WMA License, Honorary License, Sportsmen’s License, Lifetime License or Three-Day Hunting and Fishing License.

GORP General Information and Pricing

Purchase Your GORP Online

Don’t show up to the range without your pass.  You will be turned away.


Official Georgia DNR Regulations:

These rules are copied and pasted directly from the Georgia Department of Natural Resources WMA Firearm Range website.

PERMISSIBLE FIREARMS:

  1. Only firearms utilizing single projectile ammunition may be fired on DNR managed firing ranges. However, shotguns utilizing multiple projectile ammunition may be fired at stationary targets for purposes of assessing shotgun patterns and in areas specifically designated by DNR for shotguns. Sawed-off shotguns, sawed-off rifles, machine guns, dangerous weapons, and silenced weapons as defined in O.C.G.A. § 16-11-121, and any weapon firing more than once with a single trigger pull are prohibited on DNR firing ranges. However, silenced weapons may be used by any person provided that such person has in their possession, at all times, proof of registration of such silencer consistent with the National Firearms Act and such person is in compliance with O.C.G.A. § 16-11-121.
  2. Rifles using centerfire cartridges .50 caliber or larger are prohibited.

GENERAL RANGE RULES:

  1. No alcoholic beverages (as defined in O.C.G.A. § 3-1-2) shall be possessed on any DNR managed firing range.
  2. No person under the influence of alcohol or drugs is permitted on a DNR firing range.
  3. No smoking is permitted on or near the firing line.
  4. Non-shooters must remain at least six feet behind the firing line whenever any shooter is at the firing line.
  5. Tracer or any ammunition considered to be incendiary or explosive is prohibited on the firing range.
  6. Targets must be constructed of paper, cardboard, ballistics polymer, or similar material that will not shatter or cause bullet ricochet. Metal targets may be used for special events if approved by DNR in advance.
  7. Ground level targets must be positioned so that a bullet will not strike flat ground before the backstop; all targets must be located so that a bullet will strike between the base and halfway up the backstop.
  8. No shooting at flying or thrown objects is allowed except with shotguns and shot shells in areas specifically designated by DNR for such shooting activities.
  9. All children (16 years old or younger) must be accompanied and directly supervised by an adult 18 years old or older.
  10. All objects, trash, targets, and spent cartridge hulls must be removed by firing range users when leaving the range.
  11. Range use is allowed only in accordance with range hours and dates posted at the firing range.
  12. Shooters shall fire only at the target directly down range of that person’s position.
  13. Any person using DNR firing ranges must wear hearing and eye protection.
  14. Double tapping or rapid fire is prohibited. Shooters shall allow at least one second between shots.

GUN HANDLING RULES:

  1. Any firearm must be unloaded and either cased or have its’ action open, except when it is at firing line and is being used for firing.
  2. In the event of a firearm malfunction, the shooter shall keep his/her firearm pointed down range, advise all persons at the firing line of the malfunction, and unload as soon as possible.
  3. In the event of a malfunction of another shooter’s firearm, all firearms must be unloaded with actions open for the duration of the malfunction.
  4. All firearms on the firing line must be grounded and unloaded, with actions open whenever anyone is downrange.
  5. Muzzles must be pointed downrange for all firearms on the firing line.
  6. The muzzle of every firearm when in the firing position must be in front of the front edge of the bench upon which it rests.
  7. All loading of muzzleloaders must be by single charge dispensers; pouring powder from larger containers directly into a muzzleloader is prohibited.  Loading muzzleloaders must be done at least six feet behind the firing line whenever another muzzle-loading firearm is on the firing line.
  8. Shooters must be at the firing line before capping or priming muzzle-loading firearms.
  9. In the event of a hangfire, muzzle-loading firearms must be kept pointed downrange until the problem is corrected.
  10. Containers of muzzleloader propellant must remain closed except when needed for filling a single charge dispenser.

RANGE SAFETY OFFICERS:

  1. Any person on the range shall obey the range commands of department Range Safety Officers. This includes, but is not limited to: Begin Fire commands, Cease Fire commands, and Resume Fire commands.
  2. Range Safety Officers may call a Cease Fire at any time an unsafe condition is recognized on the range.  Any person on the range shall immediately obey a Cease Fire command by grounding all firearms with actions open.
  3. It is unlawful for any person on the range to disregard Range Safety Officer warnings concerning failure to obey any range rule.

Authority O.C.G.A. Title 27; O.C.G.A. §27-1-4; Georgia Dept. of Natural Resources Regulation 391-4-9-.02


Range Querks:

Have Your GORP Pass When You Arrive:

Don’t even bother showing up if you do not have a valid GORP pass issued by the Georgia Department of Natural Resources.  They will turn you around and point the way back off of the property.  No exceptions.

Make Sure That Your Bullets Only Hit The Berm:

Firearms Safety Rule #4.  Know your target and beyond.  The DNR wants to make sure that your rounds terminate into the berm at the far end of the range.  The Range Safety Officers will deliver a litter of kittens if they see rounds skip on the ground prior to the berm (the logic being that when the round skips it will then sail over the top of the berm).  While setting up your targets, be very sure of where your rounds will impact after they pass through your target.

The Official Range Hours Of Operation Aren’t Official:

The range has official hours listed on the DNR’s website, but should any of the Range Safety Officers get sick or decide to blow off work that day, the range will, without any warning, be closed that day.  There have been several times in the past few years that I have shown up to shoot, but the Range Safety Officers never arrived to unlocked the cattle gate at the entrance to the property.  If you are going to be driving a significant distance to shoot, you might be well served to call the local DNR in Richmond Hill at (912) 727-2112 and politely inquire as to whether or not the range is open that day.  They should be able to tell you if the HMFIC at the range showed up that day or not.

No Tactical Shit!:

Don’t show up wearing a gun.  I guess that if you properly conceal it then they won’t know that you have it, but if they see you open carry, or draw from concealment, then they will lose their minds.

You can’t draw from a holster and shoot.  Don’t even think about any trying any high-speed, tactical reloads and weapons transitions.  They will freak out.

Shotguns = BAD:

Unless you are planning on shooting rifled slugs, don’t even take your combat shotgun out of your truck.  The only way that they will allow bird-shot or buck-shot is if you are trying to determine the shot pattern of a hunting shotgun, for which you are only allowed a few rounds, and can fire from only one particular shooting lane.

It Gets Crowded:

You best chance of getting a shooting table is to go early in the morning on Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays (The range is closed on Tuesdays).  The later you go in the day, the higher the probability of it being crowded and there not being a table available.  Under no circumstances should you consider going to the range on Saturday and Sunday, or any holiday.  The place is jam-packed with people.  You won’t get a table without waiting forever.  With a crowd that big you will go longer periods of time shooting, and will find yourself waiting for a “cold range” call so that you can replace your spent targets.  With the larger crowds I feel that there is a higher probability of an accidental discharge and someone getting hurt.  I don’t want to be there when it does.


Conclusion:

The range is acceptable for sighting in a rifle, bulls eye shooting with a pistol, or drinking coffee and talking bullshit with old people, but that’s about it.  If you need to seriously train and practice for self-defense then you should take a look at the local firearms training companies in the local area and train at their ranges.

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December 2015 Updates and Improvements

Rear Backup Sight On Bushmaster Flat-Top Carbine

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Bushmaster M4A3


Spoiler: If you think that you are going to install a rear backup sights on your Bushmaster (and several other brands) rifle and start shooting, you are wrong.

If you replace the rear carry handle on your Bushmaster flat-top carbine you may have a problem zeroing the rifle. The height of the Bushmaster front sight is lower than backup iron sights. Even if you raise the front sight post as high as possible, your may find that your rifle still shoots well above point-of-aim (POA). The solution is as easy as replacing the front sight post… a $6 solution.

AR-15 Front Sight F MarkingMil-Spec front sight bases for A-3 (removable carry handle / flat-top) AR-15 rifles are taller than older A-1 and A-2 (fixed carry handle) rifles. They are marked with a raised “F” on the front sight base’s forging (as seen right). Colt and other manufacturers that equip their flat-top rifles with Mil-Spec front sights may offer a removable carry handle with rear sights that are taller than the traditional A-1 and A-2 rear sights, and are the appropriate height for the taller front sight.

There are a few manufacturers whose AR front sight towers are not quite exactly Mil-Spec height. Bushmaster still uses the older, traditional shorter A-2 front sight base on their A-3 (removable carry handle) rifles.

Commercial vs. Mil-Spec AR-15 Carry HandleTo make up for the difference between the front sight tower and the removable carry handle, Bushmaster (and some other manufacturers) use shorter removable carry handles. The difference between a Mil-Spec and commercial removable carry handle is very difficult to tell apart unless you have one of each to compare, or have a dial or digital caliper to measure.

Front Sight Post Backed OutThe Bushmaster front sight post and removable carry handle combination work fine together, however you will run into problems should you decide to replace the Bushmaster carry handle with a backup iron sight (BUIS). 99,9% of backup iron sights are Mil-Spec height. When you attempt to zero the rifle you can raise the post in the front sight tower to the point that it wobbly and about to fall out (as seen right) and the rifle will still be hitting too low.

Pictured right is a comparison of the Mil-Spec front sight post (left) that sits on a taller front sight base compared to the .040″ taller post (right) that is required on the shorter Bushmaster sight base to make it work with backup iron sights. These can be ordered from Bushmaster’s website.

AR-15 Front Sight ToolIt will require a front sight tool to remove the original post and replace it with the taller one. Simply use the tool to simultaneously hold in the front post retaining pin while unscrewing the sight post out of the sight base. It’s very easy with the tool, and frustrating and time-consuming without it.

It is interesting to note that replacing the front sight post is more critical on Bushmaster carbines, but may not be necessary on full-length rifles with 20″ barrels.

Before you start ordering parts for replacing your removable carry handle and front sight post from your Bushmaster, verify that it is not marked with the raised “F”. Older Bushmasters were not. There is a chance that since Bushmaster is under new ownership that newer rifles may have the correct height Mil-Spec front sight tower and sight post that will work with Mil-Spec backup iron sights.



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